Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Dan Foote - FFA February 12, 1977 by Jeff Thomas and Willis Krause. |
Page Views: | 3,785 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Drewsef on Feb 21, 2009 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This route is super classic, some bolted face, long free climbing, some loose junk, a sweet finish and big ledges. Start as for Teddy Bear's picnic.
P1 - move up the huecos and step up into a shallow right-facing corner and then move up and left past a few bolts (10a) on small knobs and belay in a corner.
P2 - climb up and left over a small pinnacle and step down left to a nice ledge (this is a little funky but straight-forward and not hard).
P3 - get your head on and move up, passing on the left side of a huge hollow-sounding flake and into the overhanging section, move right past this (5.9) to belay on a small ledge.
P4 - jam up right in the clean, solid crack for the money pitch of the route (5.8), then follow the chimney to a big ledge.
P5 - two options a) climb straight up the face past bolts and join the wide crack at about mid-pitch b) get right into the big stuff and grunt your way through (both 5.9)
Walk off the back side. Beware there is a HUGE white owl living in the top of the chimney next to the P4 belay. If you choose to do the wide start to P5 you'll probably make friend or foe with this spooky avian creature! His pellets are all over the P4 chimney and you could mistake them for bear crap or some other large carnivore...sweet!
P1 - move up the huecos and step up into a shallow right-facing corner and then move up and left past a few bolts (10a) on small knobs and belay in a corner.
P2 - climb up and left over a small pinnacle and step down left to a nice ledge (this is a little funky but straight-forward and not hard).
P3 - get your head on and move up, passing on the left side of a huge hollow-sounding flake and into the overhanging section, move right past this (5.9) to belay on a small ledge.
P4 - jam up right in the clean, solid crack for the money pitch of the route (5.8), then follow the chimney to a big ledge.
P5 - two options a) climb straight up the face past bolts and join the wide crack at about mid-pitch b) get right into the big stuff and grunt your way through (both 5.9)
Walk off the back side. Beware there is a HUGE white owl living in the top of the chimney next to the P4 belay. If you choose to do the wide start to P5 you'll probably make friend or foe with this spooky avian creature! His pellets are all over the P4 chimney and you could mistake them for bear crap or some other large carnivore...sweet!
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