The Arizona 9? (Nine summits that epitomize AZ climbing)

Hi Folks,

I've been tinkering with Becky's Classics, and other such ultra-vibing route lists for the last few years and always thought of what one could be for our magnificent rock-filled mecca. Sure I could think of classic climbs in the Northern, Central and Southern reaches of our state, but what are the classic summits? From the 'popular' lore-filled peaks of Baboquivari and Zoraster's temple to the rounded domes of Cochise Stronghold, and spires of Sedona. What do you think represents our states finest?

I believe that the list should be a display of the varying topography, geology, and geography of the state rather than simply the absolute best climbing. 3-4 from each region depicting the history, ethics, and styles that have come into establishing Arizona's climbing. I chose 9 as the number, because it forces much more thought that listing off regions finest, rather we must now think of the state. And someone just told me that we are in the "9th congressional district" so thats cool too. So tell us, what are your 9 favorite climbs/(technical) summits in Arizona? Or maybe just your favorite local ones.

Elias

Mine would probably be:

Zoraster's Temple, Oak Creek Spire, Hualapai Wall, Baboquivari, Sheepshead, Leviathan Dome, The Totem Pole, Courthouse Rock, and Granite Mountain (I know, this ones kinda vague.. but its all GOOD! :D)

Mt Humphrey, dude! Hahaha... It's a nice hike, regardless, and the tallest point in AZ. There's more technical climbing to be had at its base too.

The Totem Pole and Sheepshead I can vouch for, wish I'd gotten on more while I was there. It looks like you have a good list going.

I always had a fun time on Pinnacle Peak, though it's not some mighty objective with an easy 5.3 scramble to the top.

Mt Lemmon. It's a technical ascent in your car for like 27 miles or so, and then a super long trek from the parking lot. Almost a few hundred yards. There's a sketchy climb over a fence to bag the true peak, since it's on the observatory property. Make sure to bring plenty of pro for the climb!

The top of Rockfellow Dome is as cool a place as anything in AZ. But there's a lot of other summits - Montezuma's Head is really neat. Or how about Finger Rock? Or some of the summits in Mendoza?

I haven't been here that long, but of the few I've climbed I would vote for the Totem Pole (if you are talking about Lower Devil's Canyon). Also I would trade Sheepshead for the Whale in Cochise. Hope to make it to climb some of these other summits!

Nice lists so far guys! Moby Dick on Whale Dome is definitely a good climb as is the rappel off, only I peronsally find the climbing on Sheepshead or Rockfellow Dome to be a better representation of Cochise climbing.

As for Humphreys and Lemmon, I should've been a bit more clear, I meant summits accessible by class 5 climbs. I guess a better list would be the Arizona 9, Climbs. Only I'm very much a accustomed to Alpine Style or Desert Tower classic lists, as such I go for the 9 climbing-acessed summits.

Mt Lemmon, definitely hosts some fantastic climbing for our state, as do the crags around the San Fransisco Peaks but these aren't true classic climbs. They are however extremely classic hiking and craging areas! If we're going to make a hiking list, I'd have to throw in the Four Peaks (Browns Pk, its the only place Ive seen both Mt Hump & Mt Lemmon!) & Mt. Wrightston. Anyways, back to climbing. :D

Elias

I am quite surprised that nobody thus far has listed The Mace. It is an ultra-classic that is incredibly aesthetic. I have listed 9 routes that constitute summits, although a couple of them are on the same formation.

Zoroaster Temple, NE Arete
The Mace, Original Route
Granite Mountain, Candyland & Coatimundi Whiteout
Cochise Stronghold Sheepshead, The Peacemaker & Stampede
Mt. Lemmon, Leviathan Dome North Face Route
The Teapot, Wild Wild West
The Totem Pole (in Monument Valley, not in Queen Creek)

In Cochise Stronghold, Moby Dick and What's My Line are probably two of the most "classic" routes that "epitomize AZ climbing," but there are many that are far better if you can climb a little harder such as Abracadaver, The Peacemaker, & Stampede.

Paradise Forks does not really constitute a "summit," but is superb climbing/cragging and is a must visit for crack climbers anywhere in the state.

I've actually been working on my own list of classic AZ summits and ticking them off for awhile. I have a list of 12 but there are certainly others that deserve classic status.
Here's my list. A * indicates I've reached the summit.
Totem Pole (monument valley)*
Spider Rock
Mt. Hayden*
Zoroaster Temple*
Tooth Rock*
The Mace*
Weaver's Needle*
The Praying Monk*
Courthouse Rock (eagle tail mtns)*
Baboquivari Peak*
Leviathan Dome*
Rockfellow Dome

If you are going to make it down to Cochise, the Rockfellow summit is a MUST! Any climb to the top will be worth it, and it's a better summit that the aforementioned ones, although those climbs are all badass too.

Nice list Flex.

I think mine closely aligns with Elias's, but Hayden is a good addition. Agathla looks like it would be a pretty spectacular summit.

There is a tower of crumbly loose rock near Lake Havasu that we call Monolith, that would get a vote as well.

Days of Future Passed, Rockfellow Dome, Cochise
Elephants Trunk, Elephant Dome, Mendoza Canyon
Courthouse Rock, Eagle Tail Mtns
South Crack, Pinnacle Peak, Scottsdale
Grandfather Hobgoblin, Superstitions
Spider Walk summit, Superstitions
Totem Pole, Lower Devils Canyon
Arch Enemy, Flying Buttress, Sedona
Sedona Scenic Cruise, Gibraltar Rock, Sedona

That's as far north as I got with the list of nine. Favorite climbs to great summits.

Though I haven't climbed either; I feel there has to be some summits in the Grand Canyon and the Navajolands on this list.

I would add Earth Angel Spire?

Catherine Conner wrote:I would add Earth Angel Spire?

wonder why it took so long for that to make the list!
The Acropolis is a fun summit
Sedona's like the GCNP, not sure I ever met a summit I didn't like.

Any summit in the big ditch is on my list, even the "walk ups"
Manaslu (?) up behind Buddha is quite nice
but Hayden via Pegasus is my personal favorite. Truly a remarkable summit.
Those new routes on the N or NE face of Zoro look awesome.

Since you mention GM, that puts the Klondike Wall in the mix.
neither is a real summit...

End Pinnacle of course. Haul gear and spend the night in the bath tubs.

Anyone mention the choss fest down in the Kofas? Spacing on its name right now.

Montezuma's Head out by Organ Pipe....