ginger cracks to power failure

I've done unimpeachable groping and rapped down the bowl above power failure to descend to the ground. Reading the comments on Power Failure, people making it seems like a total death trap to do the route. I don't remember it being THAT dangerous if you are just extra careful up top. Question is has it improved up top or gotten worst? I was to try to do ginger cracks and if there is time to power failure. Trying to do this two routes this friday

I don't think it'll ever clean up above the bowl enough to make rockfall a non-issue but, like you, I don't think it's a death trap. The big issue is other parties up there above Power Failure not paying attention to not knocking rocks down as they descend from Ginger Cracks or UG. If you're climbing Ginger Cracks first in the morning you'll have a pretty good idea if there are other parties behind you on Ginger Cracks or on UG, If so, perhaps you could communicate to them your plans to climb Power Failure later and ask them to be extra diligent as they descend above the route.

It's been a while since I've been on that wall. I think the first time we did crimson we parked at the lot what the guide book suggested (pine creek?)...And the last time two times was (i think) oak creek. That's the last pull out/dirt parking lot right? This should be the shortest way to approach this wall right?

If only people knew how easy it is to rap All You Can Eat with a single 70m rope, this would be a non-issue.

Climbed UG this past weekend. The bowl did have some loose rock, but it wasn't terrible. I had one small rock whizz past that was dislodged by my partner while he was getting ready to rap.

I'll second the suggestion to rap the line to the left of Power failure. It is almost a plumb rap, with the anchos sitting in/just left of the black streak, there is a small ledge to stand on that is just big enough for two. Note that I was barely able to see the chains when I was level with the highest belay on Power failure. They are obscured by a bulge at the top of a crack system.

+1 for power failure first. Be on and off before the rappel conga line gets rolling.

I concur; Power Failure on its own is a fine climb, definitely not a death trap. Be on the route early and you won't have to worry about others rapping down on top of you and knocking rocks loose.

Yep first rap station is in a rubbly drainage. Heavy rains perch the rocks there. Descending climbers knock em down. As said climb Power Failure 1st for safety. But Ginger first would be more convenient.
Both beautiful features! Have fun!

Stone Nude wrote: If only, if only. Hey Josh, if you have beta on how to descend Ginger Buttress with a single rope, why lament the lack of information? Wouldn't it be more useful if you posted it up?

How much more beta do you need apart from what I just posted?

Jan Tarculas wrote:I've done unimpeachable groping and rapped down the bowl above power failure to descend to the ground. Reading the comments on Power Failure, people making it seems like a total death trap to do the route. I don't remember it being THAT dangerous if you are just extra careful up top. Question is has it improved up top or gotten worst? I was to try to do ginger cracks and if there is time to power failure. Trying to do this two routes this friday

Maybe you're climbing today? I was on UG and Power Failure two months ago. It's just as you remember. I would not want anybody rapping or starting the scrappy descent from UG into the bowl while I am on Power Failure. I second the suggestion to get on power failure first thing.