Mountain Project Logo

Bolts

Original Post
Robert Murner · · Ga · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 65

I was recently looking at buying some bolts to use for Anchors on a route. However, I was wondering what bolts you prefer. I generally hear of 3/8 bolts as well as 1/2 bolts; do you have a preference? A preferred brand? A preferred length? Any help would be greatly appreciated. The more opinions the better!!

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

What's that old saying? If you HAVE to ask, maybe reconsider?

LOL!

Robert Murner · · Ga · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 65

Lol! Very true. One might also say though thats everyone has to start somewhere, and it's better to ask and be sure than to just go with it.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

There's some good reading to be found here.

safeclimbing.org/education/…

Robert Murner · · Ga · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 65

Thanks!

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"One might also say though that everyone has to start somewhere, and it's better to ask and be sure than to just go with it."

True and it is very wise to ask.

That said, ideally one learns via the "Mentor ladder".

Unfortunately that is not often enough the case.

But so what, right?

"Yer GONNA die!"...

LOL!!!...
Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Locker was correct with his first statement. Everyone does have to start some where, but it doesn't have to involve bolts. There is more to bolting than just the bolts. It depends on the stone you are bolting into also. Very few things in the SE require 1/2" bolts. Most of the stone is very solid and can easily get away with 3/8" always SS hangers and bolts. Make sure you ask the FA party before you add anchors to their route. Also check with bolting policies for the area you are thinking about, it could jeopardize access. Lastly, ask around about why this certain route already doesn't have anchors. There could be a legitimate reason for not needing anchors that you may not have considered. Any bolts that go into a high traffic area should be painted AT HOME. There are many traditional cliffs in the SE. Understanding what is acceptable before putting a permanent hole into 100 million year old rock is important, unless you have a disposable income.

If your plan is to replace old bolts 1 for 1, then most people won't care. Adding new bolts is where you can get into trouble.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"Locker was correct with his first statement"

Another good saying.

Swing at it five thousand times and you're bound to hit it at least once.

LMAO!
Nico C · · mt shasta, ca · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Please do not add bolts, anchors or not without permission from the creator and/or local/community consensus. Exception is replacing existing bad for good IF you have the experience to do safely and without damage.

Please do not bolt at all without a thorough understanding of how to do so safely and properly - you likely need a mentor and some practice not on existing routes.

There is a lot at stake here -repeating others cause its important

Thanks

Robert Murner · · Ga · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 65

The area I plan to bolt Anchors in is a very low population are close to my house. If I do indeed bolt anything it will be in the form of new routes. I appreciate the concern about protecting the legacy of current routes, but I do not plan to tamper with any established routes. Thanks for the tips! Especially informing me about the general using of 3/8 bolts in the south east as well as using stainless steel. I am curious about that though. What is the advantage of stainless steel over plated? Simply stronger and less corrosion? Or is there other reasons?

Thanks!

Robert Murner · · Ga · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 65
Locker wrote:"But so what, right? "Yer GONNA die!"... LOL!!!...
Hahahha lol
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

First make sure it's alright with whoever owns the land and if there's one person who has developed most of the rest of the climbs their, i would discuss it with him/her for suggests, advice, etc. 3/8" is fine in SE sandstone or granite. if it's a different rock type ask around local developers. i would suggest 5 piece rawl bolts as they can be easily inspected and removed when needed. i'd go with SS over plated because GA is fairly humid and SS will resist corrosion better. whichever you choose, make sure the bolt and hanger are the same metal. i would also suggest adding rap rings or quicklinks pre equalized with lengths of chain if needed. also pay attention to make sure rings/links won't be loaded over an edge. hangers that are painted to match the rock color will generally earn you brownie points, especially in the SE

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Robert, if you do a simple search, you will find there are a bunch of long threads about the topic in this forum that will give you a lot of information. More can be found in the School of Rock section. Also check out the installation videos in the FixeHardware and Wavebolt sites

B Robinson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

At the Access Fund, we're trying to encourage everyone to think really long term when they're placing anchors. Best general practice is to use 1/2" stainless steel anywhere you can use a power drill (ie you don't have to hand drill). Also consider how easy the bolt will be to replace when the time comes. The new Legacy bolt from ClimbTech is a good option, as is a powers 5 piece. Glue-in bolts are a wise choice in some areas, especially with soft stone. 3/8" continues to be common but 1/2" is much stronger, more durable, harder to over-torque, and is increasingly the standard. Do NOT use plated steel bolts with stainless steel hangers - this combination is unfortunately very common (as plated hangers are rare and plated bolts are not) and eventually leads to galvanic corrosion.

But please - Do not buy some bolts and a drill and start slamming them in! Mentorship is extremely important when it comes to placing bolts. There are simply too many variables to learn how to do it from a video or online. Local ethics and politics, legal and regulatory issues with the land management agency, local variability in rock type, clipping stance and top anchors placement - these are just a few of the things to take into consideration when placing anchors. Find someone who has done it before, ideally in your area, and start from there.

We're working on a series of articles on responsible re-bolting, stay tuned.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
Robert Murner wrote:The area I plan to bolt Anchors in is a very low population are close to my house. If I do indeed bolt anything it will be in the form of new routes. I appreciate the concern about protecting the legacy of current routes, but I do not plan to tamper with any established routes. Thanks for the tips! Especially informing me about the general using of 3/8 bolts in the south east as well as using stainless steel. I am curious about that though. What is the advantage of stainless steel over plated? Simply stronger and less corrosion? Or is there other reasons? Thanks!
While you think these may be "low population" cliffs, you may be surprised about how many people frequent certain areas like Currahee, Yonah, Tallulah, Chattooga, etc... Someone may still get pissed off and remove your hardware. The first question you should be asking is if this climb really needs a bolt, or is it just convenient for you. Again, Locker was correct about the mentorship of bolting. Most areas in the SE are done ground up. With all of the questions you are asking, it is likely that you are not aware of aid or other techniques to safely bolt on lead. Find someone respectable that you know is putting up new routes in our area or replacing decaying hardware. Efficiently replacing old hardware should be the first on everyone's list before adding new hardware. If this climb is really as low traffic as you say it is, it is likely that it will still be there waiting for you. By then, you may have a different outlook on this "first ascent". In my opinion, bolting is overrated and so is leaving your mark.

SS because the SE is hot, humid, and it rains a lot. All great for corrosion. If the plating gets scratched, the bolt will rust even faster. Miss matching metals causes galvanic corrosion. A plated bolt can start to rust within the first year of being placed.

Looks like Brady beat me to it.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

Rig it for TR'ing (Any NATURAL anchors to be had up top?) and call it a day.

Not every rock needs to be bolted for leading.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Bolts "

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.