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Elevation: 5,407 ft
GPS: 50.76101, -116.77269
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,030 total · 80/month
Shared By: Hans Bauck on Jan 23, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Warning Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Brenta Spire stands to the north of the main group of spires in the Bugaboos. The rock quality is generally quite good, though the routes on it have more of a mountaineering feel compared to the rock climbing routes of the rest of the spires. By far the most common route is the south ridge, which can be climbed on its own or as part of the popular Brenta Spire - Northpost Spire traverse.

Getting There Suggest change

The approach varies depending on the route chosen.

For the south ridge you'll need to access the Brenta Spire-Crescent Spire col. I will describe two ways to reach this col.

1. From Applebee camp hike north through the col between Eastpost Spire and the Crescent Towers. Descent snow slopes passing to the base of a valley. Scramble west through large boulders to a point just below the Brenta-Crescent col. A ledge system, beginning at climber's right, zig-zags up the wall to the col itself. There is some exposure at a 5th class section of slab before reaching the col.

2. Climb to the col between Crescent Spire and the Crescent Towers. This col can be reached directly by scrambling up a loose gully. Alternately you can climb a route on the Crescent Towers such as McTech Arete or Paddle Flake and traverse over the summit of Crescent Spire from left to right.

From the Crescent Spire-Crescent Towers col descend north over easy terrain towards Brenta Spire. Eventually you'll a reach a narrowing ridge crest where a short low 5th class downclimb leads to easier terrain and the Brenta Spire-Crescent Spire col.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Brenta Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 16
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Ridge
 16
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
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