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Anchor Hangers on "Ozone" at Mt Diablo State Park (Boy Scout Rocks)

Original Post
Syd Shore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

Hey,

Recently climbed "Ozone"at Boy Scout Rocks at Mt Diablo. As I was setting up a top rope anchor, I realised that the nuts that secure the hangers to the bolt in the rock were loose. I went ahead and took them all the way off (so no one accidentally anchors without noticing) and placed them in a plastic "Trader Joe's Trail Mix" bag by a tree at the top of the route.

They're really easy to place back on, just need nut tool.

Hope the next person out there has one!!

Syd

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Silicon Valley/Boulder · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 3,615

Why remove the nuts and hangers? Can't you finger tighten them enough so that they are OK to use? BTW, I carry a small adjustable wrench with me for just these situations.

Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110

^ +1

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Syd Shore wrote:Hey, Recently climbed "Ozone"at Boy Scout Rocks at Mt Diablo. As I was setting up a top rope anchor, I realised that the nuts that secure the hangers to the bolt in the rock were loose. I went ahead and took them all the way off (so no one accidentally anchors without noticing) and placed them in a plastic "Trader Joe's Trail Mix" bag by a tree at the top of the route. They're really easy to place back on, just need nut tool. Hope the next person out there has one!! Syd
Syd,

If I am reading this correctly, you took the nuts off just because they were loose? If that's correct, that was a dangerous thing to do.

With loose nuts, the anchor is still safe and useable. Without nuts, the anchor is very dangerous, because the hangers can easily come off resulting in injury or death.

You should put them back on. And understand anchors better before you mess with them.
mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

Loose nuts on an anchor bolt does not change the anchors strength.

Bad move pulling them, and you should try and remedy the inherently dangerous situation you put the next guy who climbs it in.

Pack a wrench from now on, and you can do service to a lot of issues.

Brian Pisani · · Duluth, Minnesota · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 30

I hope you went right back with a wrench and put them up again. This was super irresponsible and dangerous

Steve Z. · · Livermore, CA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

Be careful not to over-torque the nuts if you put them back on.

Chris Hill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 0
Syd Shore wrote:Hey, Recently climbed "Ozone"at Boy Scout Rocks at Mt Diablo. As I was setting up a top rope anchor, I realised that the nuts that secure the hangers to the bolt in the rock were loose. I went ahead and took them all the way off (so no one accidentally anchors without noticing) and placed them in a plastic "Trader Joe's Trail Mix" bag by a tree at the top of the route. They're really easy to place back on, just need nut tool. Hope the next person out there has one!! Syd
Syd - that was a bonehead move. By the way, nuts are tightened with a "wrench", not a "nut tool".
Syd Shore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

UPDATE: Went back and replaced the hangers. Gave them a little tighten with a wrench.

Definitely learned the lesson, hand tightened nuts on hangers are sufficient. My intention was to ensure safety, but obviously it was just a case of lack of information and "trying too hard".

Thanks for the correction!

Syd Shore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0
Dylan B. wrote:I'm going to post a "conditions update" on the page for the climb, to warn people the anchors have been removed.
Dylan B. Tried finding your "conditions update" on the route page... I'm not very adept at navigating this website. As I mentioned the hangers are back up, should i update somewhere?
Bruce Hildenbrand · · Silicon Valley/Boulder · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 3,615

Syd,

thanks for going back up there and putting the nuts and hangers back on the bolts!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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