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Syd Shore
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Feb 16, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2015
· Points: 0
Hey, Recently climbed "Ozone"at Boy Scout Rocks at Mt Diablo. As I was setting up a top rope anchor, I realised that the nuts that secure the hangers to the bolt in the rock were loose. I went ahead and took them all the way off (so no one accidentally anchors without noticing) and placed them in a plastic "Trader Joe's Trail Mix" bag by a tree at the top of the route. They're really easy to place back on, just need nut tool. Hope the next person out there has one!! Syd
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Bruce Hildenbrand
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Feb 16, 2015
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Silicon Valley/Boulder
· Joined Apr 2003
· Points: 3,615
Why remove the nuts and hangers? Can't you finger tighten them enough so that they are OK to use? BTW, I carry a small adjustable wrench with me for just these situations.
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Forthright
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Feb 17, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 110
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FrankPS
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Feb 17, 2015
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Syd Shore wrote:Hey, Recently climbed "Ozone"at Boy Scout Rocks at Mt Diablo. As I was setting up a top rope anchor, I realised that the nuts that secure the hangers to the bolt in the rock were loose. I went ahead and took them all the way off (so no one accidentally anchors without noticing) and placed them in a plastic "Trader Joe's Trail Mix" bag by a tree at the top of the route. They're really easy to place back on, just need nut tool. Hope the next person out there has one!! Syd Syd, If I am reading this correctly, you took the nuts off just because they were loose? If that's correct, that was a dangerous thing to do. With loose nuts, the anchor is still safe and useable. Without nuts, the anchor is very dangerous, because the hangers can easily come off resulting in injury or death. You should put them back on. And understand anchors better before you mess with them.
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mucci
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Feb 17, 2015
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sf ca
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 655
Loose nuts on an anchor bolt does not change the anchors strength. Bad move pulling them, and you should try and remedy the inherently dangerous situation you put the next guy who climbs it in. Pack a wrench from now on, and you can do service to a lot of issues.
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Brian Pisani
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Feb 17, 2015
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Duluth, Minnesota
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 30
I hope you went right back with a wrench and put them up again. This was super irresponsible and dangerous
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Steve Z.
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Feb 17, 2015
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Livermore, CA
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 0
Be careful not to over-torque the nuts if you put them back on.
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Chris Hill
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Feb 18, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2007
· Points: 0
Syd Shore wrote:Hey, Recently climbed "Ozone"at Boy Scout Rocks at Mt Diablo. As I was setting up a top rope anchor, I realised that the nuts that secure the hangers to the bolt in the rock were loose. I went ahead and took them all the way off (so no one accidentally anchors without noticing) and placed them in a plastic "Trader Joe's Trail Mix" bag by a tree at the top of the route. They're really easy to place back on, just need nut tool. Hope the next person out there has one!! Syd Syd - that was a bonehead move. By the way, nuts are tightened with a "wrench", not a "nut tool".
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Syd Shore
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Feb 20, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2015
· Points: 0
UPDATE: Went back and replaced the hangers. Gave them a little tighten with a wrench. Definitely learned the lesson, hand tightened nuts on hangers are sufficient. My intention was to ensure safety, but obviously it was just a case of lack of information and "trying too hard". Thanks for the correction!
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Syd Shore
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Feb 20, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2015
· Points: 0
Dylan B. wrote:I'm going to post a "conditions update" on the page for the climb, to warn people the anchors have been removed. Dylan B. Tried finding your "conditions update" on the route page... I'm not very adept at navigating this website. As I mentioned the hangers are back up, should i update somewhere?
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Bruce Hildenbrand
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Feb 20, 2015
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Silicon Valley/Boulder
· Joined Apr 2003
· Points: 3,615
Syd, thanks for going back up there and putting the nuts and hangers back on the bolts!
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