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> W Wonderland Va…
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> S Astro Dome
> S Astro Dome - Northe…
Solid Gold
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 212
votes
Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
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Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crimping Lessons S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mamunia S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Middle Age Crazy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Middle Age Savage T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Solid Gold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Herb Laeger, Jon Lonne, Jim Wilson & Mike Jaffe, March 1977 |
| Page Views: | 20,900 total · 89/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
What a great route! This classic route takes a magnificent line up the northeast face of the South Astro Dome in two great pitches. Well worth the thirty minute walk and potential wait if others are already on it. Be advised that this wall can be extremely cold in the winter months.
P1) Climb the steep gold streak past 6 bolts and many sharp edges to a belay on a ledge above (5.10a). Set your own anchor, or move slightly right to use the belay bolts on Shooting Star.
P2) From the belay climb up a ramp (pro) up and right and then trend up and left past 3 bolts to the top (5.10b). It's possible to get in a little additional pro between some of the bolts, so keep your eyes open!
To descend you can make two raps with a single rope from bolts (3/8") atop My Laundry down to a second set of rap anchors atop Shooting Star (3/8"). Another option is to descend via the route Breakfast of Champions in two single rope raps via two sets of rap anchors (3/8").
P1) Climb the steep gold streak past 6 bolts and many sharp edges to a belay on a ledge above (5.10a). Set your own anchor, or move slightly right to use the belay bolts on Shooting Star.
P2) From the belay climb up a ramp (pro) up and right and then trend up and left past 3 bolts to the top (5.10b). It's possible to get in a little additional pro between some of the bolts, so keep your eyes open!
To descend you can make two raps with a single rope from bolts (3/8") atop My Laundry down to a second set of rap anchors atop Shooting Star (3/8"). Another option is to descend via the route Breakfast of Champions in two single rope raps via two sets of rap anchors (3/8").
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