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Top Rope Solo Set Up

Original Post
Prametheus · · Teton Valley · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Trolls of MTNPROJ,

Forgive me if this thread already exists. Looking to invest in a top rope solo system this spring. I've noticed lots of people recommend both a Micro and Mini Traxion. However, it seems as though Petzl is no longer producing a mini trax...? Is this the case?

Would a system with 2 Micro Traxions work pretty well? How about a system with a pro traxion and a micro traxion? Which would be more ideal?

Thanks, I really appreciate your feedback!

Prametheus

Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

I've been a die-hard advocate of the Wren Soloist for years, I love it.....no experience with the Triaxon's

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
Sam Bedell · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 442

I have no experience personally but am in the same boat and have been doing lots of research on the matter. As far as I can tell the microtrax is just a better version of the minitrax.

-SuperTopo has an article recommending that you use one microtrax on one line (static?) and then tie back-up knots in a second line (dynamic) that you can clip into as you ascend.
-Steph Davis and others seem to recommend TWO microtrax on ONE static line.
-Some people seem to advocate the one static line with two different divices.
-Petzls page linked above recommends two different lines each with a different device.
-Blake Herrington recently promised to write an article on Cascade Climbers about how he does it cascadeclimbers.com/climb-m…
It has yet to come out but he has a picture in the first post that shows a microtrax and a minitrax on one line (presumably static).

In short it seems like it is a matter of opinion, most people seem to lean towards microtraxions right now, but some people say that you should have a different second device so you're not relying on the same mechanism. How you set that up and on what ropes (two or one, static or dynamic) seems to be a matter of knowing what can work out of the possible combos, and then just personal preference or comfort beyond that.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I use two Micro Traxions on (generally) two lines. It works amazingly well: I weight the lines with 4 quickdraws and have them hanging a bit off the ground.

This system never allows for the build up of slack, which makes me feel pretty safe. The pulleys generally track up the lines with me inch for inch with no intervention in my part, which is what makes them nice (and safer!). Other methods exist. A second device backup that was not Traxion is probably safer, but I'm really conservative with my climbing systems and feel great on two Traxions. A second line with backup knots is bombproof and simple, but not nearly as seemless as a Traxion.

The Micro is just a smaller, better version of the Mini.

Petzl had a great PDF available on this, and Locker showed me his setup before I tried it on my own (which calls the validity of the entire system into doubt... ;-)

Rigging the Traxions so that you can't invert and so that they don't interfere with each other in a fall is the only tricky part. I use an improvised chest harness with a mini tether to my tie-in point for one Traxion, and the other is off the belay loop.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Nick Votto wrote:I've been a die-hard advocate of the Wren Soloist for years, I love it.....no experience with the Triaxon's
I've used the Soloist a fair amount for TR and lead. Simply put, compared to other options out there, it sucks. The Trax work much better for TR and the Silent partner works much better for leading.
BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

Nobody gives any love for the Petzl microcender and/or rescucender. I've been using this combo and it seems to work nicely, but I don't have to deal with ice either. I also tie knots every so often as a precaution.

These used in the same fashion as in bearbreeder's post above.

1- Easy to escape due to cam pin removal.
2- Small and light weight.
3- non toothed.
4- no on/off switch

These are some pros just off the top of my head, but I believe the Silent Partner to be the safest arresting device out there. Keep in mind everything has some downside and you will have to figure out what works best for you, as others here have stated.

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,326

I use two micro Traxions for top rope soloing.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

a few tips on how to breed the biggest bears by yourself !!!

- if youve been climbing for awhile, youve got older dynamic ropes that are still in good condition ... use em for TR soloing ... some folks use static, but you really shouldnt allow slack to build up in that case, and remember should you climb above the anchors toping out (petzl says you shouldnt do it, but in some cases you have no choice), youll want to be on a dynamic rope ... dont use a shiny new rope

- on pitches that are 30m or less ... simply folk the rope in half and put a device on each rope as per the petzl recommendation ... not only are you redundant, it greatly simplifies self rescue

- of those half length pitches if you need to finish at the bottom (multipitch TR soloing from the top down, dont do it on popular routes!!!) ... simply feed the rope through the rings then tie a knot and clip it to the anchor bolts

- if you are going to use the 2 devices an one rope method as shown by petzl ... use a stretchy thin bungy type cord that goes around your neck and shoulders ... this prevents the upper device from dangling ... this should also reduce the strangulation risk with a thin cord ... dont use a nylon/dyneema sling for this reason

- on long rope stretcher TR solos ... build an intermediate anchor and clove the rope to that on yr way down ... this lessens the rope stretch so if you fall at the bottom of the route hopefully you wont get an ankle breaker

- always carry an extra long sling or two so you can get yourself out of situations ... in fact you should be very proficient at self rescue before you TR solo ... you will have to get yourself out of situations regardless

- if you have reception, carry a cell phone ... also carry a headlamp if youre on a "multi" TR solo ... shiet happens and everyone wants to get in extra laps right at sunset ...

- always back the system up ... whether its at the top when transitioning back to rappel, or normal climbing ... alway be attached 2 ways (could be a second device, or a knot below the device) at all times ... theres been fatal accidents where folks have made mistakes on TR solo

- which of course means you should have a "safe" system in place which youll practice and use over and over again ... when you do 10-20 laps a day over 50 days a year, even with the best efforts there are times when you "zone out" and run off habit ... the proper habbits will help keep you safe, bad habbits can kill you

- the devices themselves can fail ... any device with an "off setting" (mini traxion, jumar/ascender) introduces human error or the possibility it may be turned off my mistake ... any device with a spring has the possibility of a failure (theres been a few ushbas in squamish with a broken spring) ... any device can get dirt/mud/etc into it and reduce the potential for locking up ... so dont depend on one single point

i spend maybe 75% of the time climbing with partners and 25% TR soloing, mostly in the off season on marginal days ... which works out around 50 days outside a year on TR solo

squamish is one of the most TR solo friendly places as theres easy to reach top anchors all over the place ... you can even do "multipitch" TR solo

heres a few examples

malamute above starr ledge

malamute, slap and tickle 10-

;)

andyedwards · · OR · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 205

I use one mini-trax and one microcender, each on a different strand.

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 178

I've been using a microcender for the primary and a microtraxion for the back up. There are a lot of benefits to the microcender, but remember that however you rig it, the lever has to be weighted for it to engage, so you wouldn't want your other device to potentially impede this.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

There have been so many threads on this subject already. I guess one more can't hurt.

Eldo Love · · Mancos,CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 125

I use a CAMP Lift for ice rope solo. I was borrowing an USHBA for a couple of years and recently had to give it back (out of production). The Lift is very similar. I have used the Lift a couple times now and feel very safe. I dont do anything fancy, just attach it to my belay loop (most would probably recommend a chest harness). I have tied a knot in the rope below the devise and tested many different falls with it this way. It works impeccably even when it is not running perfectly. I have never used a Mini Traxion so have no comparison which is not helpful I know. I just know that from testing the devise in the store the Lift seams to have less damage to the rope because there are no teeth. The most popular technique is definitely the Petzl set up. I have only ever seen old timers using the USHBA and Lift, but it is something to look into and not well known.

I find that the Lift works best with a water bottle tied to the bottom of the rope for some tension, that's all it takes.

With that said check out THIS bad boy, the CAMP GOBLIN, youtube.com/watch?v=thlKlgr…, I spoke with someone who I have a lot of respect for as far as climbing safety is concerned and this is what he has switched to for rope solo.

Another thing to think about is that if you are still uncomfortable with the solo devices you can always tie a knot in the rope how ever often you need. If something goes wrong your devise will eventually hit the knot and that should be the end of your unplanned decent. Just keep in mind that the knots are there if you are rappelling on the same line.

The most important word of the two words in rope soloing is the latter.

Embarrassed to say · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5

Why are there no advocates for using an ascension ascender as a second back up like the Petzl articles show. IE one micro trax above and a petzl ascender below. They show this method but I NEVER hear anyone using it. Ive been using a micro trax with knots on my second line as backup. I'm going to try the aforementioned process at some point though.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

E to s,

Because it is bulky, floppy, gets in the way, and will not feed as well as other devices imho. It can also have a potential to come unclipped from the rope under certain situations if the rope is not restrained with a carabiner - which is something else bulky hanging off of you.

Eldo Love · · Mancos,CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 125
Embarrassed to say wrote:Why are there no advocates for using an ascension ascender as a second back up like the Petzl articles show. IE one micro trax above and a petzl ascender below. They show this method but I NEVER hear anyone using it. Ive been using a micro trax with knots on my second line as backup. I'm going to try the aforementioned process at some point though.
How well would an ascender flow up the rope? i seams like you would need quite a bit of weight at the bottom for it to flow up rope without having to disengage the teeth? Probably the safest way though. Depends on how redundant you are I suppose. If you don't use the EDK then my suggestion is definitely out of the question.
BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
Euro Death Knot

Yer gonna die!
Embarrassed to say · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5

I'm not sure how much weight. Thinking a pair of approach shoes etc should be enough weight? I'll have to try it out at the gym. Unless someone who's done it could chime in. In theory it doesn't seem like you'd need much additional weight to get it to self feed.

Nate Mehlman · · Everett, WA · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 80

i like to TR solo on two lines, usually one rope bunny ear'ed in the middle. I put a micro trax on one line and tie it off to high to a sling around my chest (so it holds it up and I'm not falling onto with much slack) and i use a tango cinch on the other strand. the cinch feeds rope very well and when i get to the top all i have to do is take off the micro and rap on the cinch, so your change over is kindof idiot proof and very efficient.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I have ascenders, so I could use one in theory, but I'm baffled as to why Petzl recommends them. They are inferior to a Traxion in almost every way.

They are different. But they are still possible to lock open, they are huge (comparatively), they still have teeth, and they don't compare at all when it comes to self-tending.

A Microscender is a legitimate non-Traxion device to me, for sure. An ascender really isn't. Maybe they only recommend it because they sell ascenders, but don't sell the Microscenders any more? I dunno.

Embarrassed to say · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 5

I don't either, but I'm gonna try it!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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