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Alpine climbing gear for sierras.

Original Post
Sklag · · Columbus, Ohio · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Hey everybody,
This is for anybody that has been to the sierra. Several quick questions regarding gear you would bring for an August trip.

-Rope: was thinking single lightweight 9.2mm rope. Too Thin, durability?
-Tent: MSR Hubba Hubba, or would a bd firstlight be ok?
- Anybody got any bear cannister suggestions?
Thanks

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

the 9.2 and a bd firstlight should be fine. the sierra are a good spot for the keep it tight, fast and light mentality.

bear cannisters can be rented in some locations, there should be info when you get wilderness permits or from local shops.

what are your objectives?

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Dude.

Garbage in - Garbage out. You'll get better answers if you describe what you're going to actually be doing more accurately. 4th class scrambles? 5.11+ splitter on a 12,000 foot peak?

Making us Ohio boys look bad. Come on, baby! ;)

EDIT: I'll add a little bit and see if it fits.

Bear canisters. Only required in certain areas - make sure you're going in those areas FOR SURE, or skip the canister. Especially if you're going to areas that are more remote. It's pointless extra weight/cost for most hikers/climbers. Bears hang by the tourists. In the lesser traveled zones, hanging your food away from the rodents is your main concern. Above treeline? Find a steep boulder face or something to suspend it from.

Rope - where you heading? Bolted Rap stations? Choose your own adventure/rap from bleached tat if you can find it? Anything from a single like you mentioned to some 60m half-ropes may be in order, depending on where you are planning to climb. In spite of the weight penalty, I like half ropes on alpine rock routes because it gives me more options. That is, unless you're just hanging at one of the areas that is bolted-a-plenty.

Sklag · · Columbus, Ohio · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Ok, thanks for all the info.
Objective wise, Pretty much the SUPERTACO classics:
South face of Charlotte Dome
Temple Crag- Dark Star, sun Ribbon Arete
Hulk- Red Dihedral, positive vibrations, possibly Venturi Effect

I asked about a single rope with the understanding that it might be also wise to bring a small diameter tag line. It's not my first rodeo. I might just go as light as possible.
Yes, Adam, double ropes do in theory sound awesome, until you have to untangle that crap. No thanks, unless it's a really wandering route or there are some rope shredder edges. Besides, taking a fall on two 7 mm ropes with all that rope stretch... nope.

It is my understanding that bear canisters are recommended for these areas.
Renting might be the best option.

how far in advance should one start considering getting permits?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
Sklag wrote:Ok, thanks for all the info. Objective wise, Pretty much the SUPERTACO classics: South face of Charlotte Dome Temple Crag- Dark Star, sun Ribbon Arete Hulk- Red Dihedral, positive vibrations, possibly Venturi Effect I asked about a single rope with the understanding that it might be also wise to bring a small diameter tag line. It's not my first rodeo. I might just go as light as possible. Yes, Adam, double ropes do in theory sound awesome, until you have to untangle that crap. No thanks, unless it's a really wandering route or there are some rope shredder edges. Besides, taking a fall on two 7 mm ropes with all that rope stretch... nope. It is my understanding that bear canisters are recommended for these areas. Renting might be the best option. how far in advance should one start considering getting permits?
I think canisters are worth it. Heavy and bulky but the peace of mind for me is worth it, especially if I'm out for many days. For bears and mice and marmots.

For super popular areas (Whitney/Russell/temple)get your permits as soon as possible. For most others I've had ok luck with walk up permits the day before I left. Have a backup plan when you go to the ranger office.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

For the Celestial arêtes and Charlotte Dome, you can leave the tag line in the car. On Temple Crag, there is one single-rope rappel and the rest is a walk off. Charlotte Dome is a walk-off. Don't bother bringing twins or double-ropes. 60meter will be fine (and less weight).

Doesn't matter what tent you bring.

Bear canisters are not required in the Palisades, but will be at Charlotte Dome. Although I have the Garcia, I think the Bear Vault is better (slightly lighter).

You can reserve your wilderness permits for those areas six months in advance, for a fee, at recreation.gov or get a walk-in permit the day before for free.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

i like an 80m for the hulk, it makes rapping nicer if you don't summit on venturi and positive vibes

ZANE · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2011 · Points: 20
Adam Burch wrote:Dude. Making us Ohio boys look bad. Come on, baby! ;)
hahaha. We gotta stand together for the great state.
brat . · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 81

+1 vote for the Bear Vault if you're gonna drop the dough and buy a bear can. Definitely easier to stuff to the gills than a Garcia can.

And +1 for the "just bring a bear can for piece of mind" school of thought. Marmots in the Sierra can be devious and hungry, even if you're too high up for bears. You'll definitely want a can if you go to Charlotte Dome -- the bears are pretty habituated out there. Garcia cans ARE easy to rent at permit offices if you don't want to buy a can.

I have always camped in the Sierra in a BD BetaLight shelter. Less than one pound, sets up with your trekking poles, just make sure to have p-cord to tie to rocks for the corners when you're camping on slabs. A HubbaHubba would just be more tent (and more weight) than you need for all but the freakiest of Sierra storms!

Have a good trip!

Sean Burke · · Concord, CA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 75

Dude leave the bear canister and get a bear bag if you need it. Rodents will be your only concern in the areas you mentioned. You can do the sun ribbon and dark star on a 30m, which is great if you plan to c2c it and because you'll be simuling 90% of it. 80 is good for the Hulk because you can link big time. I use a 9.2 nano most of the time and it shows it, but I wouldn't carry one any fatter because some of the approaches can be pretty........scenic.

Jonathan Cunha · · Bolinas, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 62

Here is a link to an ultra light back backpacking list for the Sierra's in late summer--some pretty good info in there

andrewskurka.com/2014/backp…

RJNakata · · SoCal · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 460
sean burke wrote:Dude leave the bear canister and get a bear bag if you need it. Rodents will be your only concern in the areas you mentioned.
This.
I've carried the canister into areas where the only threat was marmots and squirrels and hated that it did it. The Ursack or other mesh bag are often even overkill.

BUT, if I had to get a can (forced to) renting is the way to go...super cheap and cans are not needed everywhere so owning can be a seldom used luxury.
Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

With all due respect, using a bear can where you aren't required to by da gubment in the Sierra is hilarious. That is, unless you enjoy carrying pointless pounds into the mountains - knock yourself out.

Floorless tent suggestion is a good one - only thing I'd worry about would be the possible mosquito issue depending on the time of summer/amount of moisture/where you're camping. Light snow year so far this year, so that's in your favor for the coming summer.

Skinny single instead of half-ropes? If you're pulling hard enough to climb Venturi, I'd imagine your odds of falling are pretty slim on the easier (see less clean/more ledges) routes you're suggesting. Just don't epic and have to bail on anything, and you'll probably be fine.

Or you might die. ;)

Sklag · · Columbus, Ohio · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I'll probably just die.

outdoorcrazy · · Reno, Nv · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

I would leave the first light at home and take the Huba Huba. A single wall tent in the sierras in the summer will likely develop heavy condensation inside.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

^ open the vents

Pavel K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 211
outdoorcrazy wrote:I would leave the first light at home and take the Huba Huba. A single wall tent in the sierras in the summer will likely develop heavy condensation inside.
not at all. we use firstlight all the time.

you need AT LEAST 70m to rap off Positive Vibrations/Sunspot and it is pretty tight.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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