Mammut Smart Alpine - Which Biner?!

I'm plenty careful - with this thing/megajul/etc, it's an assisted brake. I do the ole leg wrap for good measure, but with the BOA it requires a couple wraps - Williams it's just in case, there's no movement. BOA is not optimal.

as a side note for all you alpine smart fans out there ...

if yr on multi carry an attache 3d or two as your normal lockers ...

not only are they a good wide biner for clove hitchs and other such

its probably the best ultralight HMS locker that works with the alpine smart should you drop your williams/boa/etc ...

last year i stupidly dropped my williams 4 pitches up so i had to use my attache 3d for belaying and multiple raps ... its not as smooth as a williams but is serviceable even with a 10mm fuzzy rope

if the only other lockers you had were "normal" light asymmetrical ones such as positrons/etc .... well then you had better be proficient with your munter and biner brakes !!!

;)

Tom Sherman wrote: EDIT: For the earlier mentioned example: the low friction isn't an option for guide mode so??? think the problem was two different diameter ropes, bringing two climbers at same time, and leader wanted to just grab both ropes and pull equally. Where he needed to be paying equal attention to the ropes individually.

tom ...

you want an alpine smart or a gigi if you want "smooth" belaying with thicker ropes in autoblock, especially 2 at once

the examples i gave were for lead belay/rap

youre right in that youll want to pull up each strand individually when belaying 2 climbers from the top ... however it can be quite difficult to do this regardless unless you are on thinner or halve ropes sometimes

theres a reason why folk who spend alot of time in autoblock with 2 followers use gigis quite a bit

;)