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I need a history lesson..

Original Post
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Ladies and Gents,

I bought a pair of Lowe Foot Fangs to try out once. I'm interested in what it was like to climb ice way back when. I'm thinking of buying some axes that would have been used the same year as the Foot Fangs. I can't find anything in the internet about the history of ice gear. I hoping someone would let me know what axes to get. I'm looking at Lowe Hummingbirds but think that tool might be older than the Foot Fangs. Suggestions please?

sarcasm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 445

This is probably semi-incomplete but it's fun to look at nonetheless.

alaskaiceclimbing.com/iceti…

I was recently talking to a climber who has been climbing ice for 30+ years and he was explaining some interesting things about the foot fangs. Sounds like they edged really well.

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

X-Dreams

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Before Footfangs I had Choiunard rigids along with wooden shafted Choiunard axes and hammers (actually before that were some Simond hinged crampons with who knows what for tools). Then alond came the Footfands along with Snargs, Bigbirds and Hummingbirds. In that same era Simond Chacal axes and hammers were popular - interchangeable picks etc. Finally the Pulsars came along. But I kept using the Footfangs for a long time.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Thanks Sarcasm for posting that timeline. I didn't realize Foot Fangs were around in 1976!

Thanks Eric, I'll look for Pulsars or the Simonds

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

I've got a pair of Chouinard rigid crampons and a Chouinard ice hammer...stored away. Used to have a Terrodactyl but lost in storage. Those rigids must be from about 1977. I remember free soloing the Elliot Headwall on Mt. Hood with them about that time.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Those old rigid strap-on "poons (Chouinard's were well regarded, I had them and SMCs, and actually preferred the less curved frontpoints on the SMC rigids) worked really well on rigid boots. The boots of that era were frighteningly heavy, but the old poons + modern light boot = a viable combo. I never cared for FootFangs, but I would imagine they also are still useable on a new boot.

One thing those rigids did NOT do was adjust to different boots easily. There are 22 set screws on my SMCs!

Alan Ream · · Lafayette CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,405

Those Pulsars are real knuckle bashers- yet very sturdy tools. I used them for a long time after my Hummingbirds. I still have my Hummingbirds on the wall. Good times. Good luck with your quest.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

I got a pair of footfangs in '83 or so. Bomber.

Tools...Chouinard Zero and Northwall. Hummingbirds of course. Chouinard X tools. I still have Pulsars. Simond Chakal. Stubai FKW.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Thanks Mike! That seems kinda high though. $235 just to hang on the wall?

I'm working out a deal for a new never used Hummingbird that has a dime size worth of rust on the hammer. Did you use two Hummingbirds or one and another tool?

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

Woah, just opened that timeliine up and first thoughts, 1963 creation of ice screw? Was all mountaineering pickets, or just simulclimbing prior to that? Sounds like I need a history lesson.

Edit: and thought they had rigid crampons prior to 70's??? What crampons were those?

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

Tom, I would have to do some research of exactly when they came about but before ice screws folks used ice pitons. Chouinard rigid crampons came out in the late 60s

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025
Allen Sanderson wrote:Tom, I would have to do some research of exactly when they came about but before ice screws folks used ice pitons. Chouinard rigid crampons came out in the late 60s
---------------------------------
I have an ice piton somewhere and some old tube screws in storage. Thinking back, I started climbing 1974. I believe the rigid Chouinard crampons had been on the market for a few years before I got them. For me it was an upgrade from some old hinged Stubai's. Put the Chouinards on some Peuteray Superguides.

Still have that stuff and I'd still use it if we ever got some decent ice in Southern Nevada
Linnaeus · · ID · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

Bill, I have some Mountain Technology axes (Glencoe model I think) that would go great with your foot fangs. Straight shaft, original hammer, adze, and leashes. I don't need them hanging around, I mostly use the adze for opening beer bottles. I'm in Baltimore, think $60 is fair?

James Sweeney · · Roselle Park, NJ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 30

Bill,

This should help get you right.

https://vimeo.com/35167823

Don't forget your wool mitts and swami.

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

Excellent James. Looks exactly like my old ice gear. Thanks for posting

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Linnaeus wrote:Bill, I have some Mountain Technology axes (Glencoe model I think) that would go great with your foot fangs. Straight shaft, original hammer, adze, and leashes. I don't need them hanging around, I mostly use the adze for opening beer bottles. I'm in Baltimore, think $60 is fair?
Thanks for the offer Linnaeus. I googled MT and found out they still have a decent following. I've spent my axe money and then some. I bought a never used Lowe Hummingbird! There's some rust on the hammer cover thingy but the pick looks new. Then I found a Chouniard ice hammer and some pitons for sale. I can't believe how much Chouinards stuff costs! I scooped all this up so Im done buying old gear. I could see me spending a shit ton of money on this stuff. Plus no way do I wanna one of those guys that collects anything.

Thanks again but I'm done... Well accept for the shadow box my wife wants to buy.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
James Sweeney wrote: Bill, This should help get you right. vimeo.com/35167823 Don't forget your wool mitts and swami.
I forgot my harness once, years ago and the guy I with said no problem and asked if I bought a cordlette. I'll never forget my harness or use anything else after that day.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

Awesome video! Took class from Pat in 1981. Too funny.

Speakin' of Genesis...

Genesis 1983 vintage

Bought the Foot Fangs used from Jack Tackle. He tried to wear them out on the 1983 American Everest expedition in the Hornbein Coulior.

Pants are Banana Pants (the product with a peel!). High school football jersey (Missoula Sentinel). Tools are Chouinard Zero for the left hand, and, I think a very short Chouinard Hammer in my right. Maybe a Forest Mjollnir hammer on my harness.

Old Chouinard tube screws with the welded on threads.

Great ol' history!

Bryan Gartland · · Helena, MT · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 623

Great photo, Brian. I doubt you ran into much traffic back in those days. Were you on G-I or G-II? The steepness of the ice suggests the later.

Cool little video as well. Pat is one of the nicest and most humble guys you can run into at the crags or ice. He's always been one to get newbies going in the game. I recall Jack Tackle introducing Pat at a Bozeman slideshow in the 1990s. He made a comment that was something along the lines of, “Pat was dry tooling back when people thought it was just something you did in high school when you couldn’t get a date…”

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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