Tupelo Chain Sex
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Cam Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990 |
Page Views: | 1,754 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Feb 7, 2015 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Typically avoided because of the super funky chain-links-used-as-bolt-hangers setup on the lead protection bolts and a lack of a real anchor, the route is surprisingly fun.
Pull onto the rock and make tricky moves to the second clip. Sneaky moves get you up to the third bolt before another slabby crux past the fifth bolt. Pretty sweet holes and huecos lead to the seventh bolt and one more tricky bulge move before clipping two new (February 2015) bolts to the anchor at the top of the formation.
For a couple decades a carabiner on the last (seventh) bolt served as the anchor with a single carabiner on it. Cam says they topped it out and didn't install an anchor, thus the current single bolt anchor setup. In February 2015 Jason added two bolts and an anchor to extend the climb and make for a safer lowering experience.
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