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Rack for Mount Yonah

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

Yonah was only 45 min. from where I lived, and back when you could still drive up, when other things were eating me up, I'd drive up, drink 3-4 beers in the parking lot, and then solo pretty much all the face routes from left to whatever that 5.8 is next to Afternoon Delight. Would not recommend the pre-climb beers, but otherwise NTB. The Dihedral is a very nice solo, the slab and headwall to the right a little more exhilerating. Never did Stannards, but did solo First Overhang once, the beer talking.

Asymptote · · Lawrenceville, GA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 15

Clay, some routes will take small to mid size cams like dihedral and behind the flake on the easy trad routes to the right. You'll only want some larger sizes if your going to belay from the top under the overhangs. The best gear I find for the main face is a good set of tricams. I always find great placements for the .125 and .25 in the many eyebrows. You're not going to find good cam placements in the shallow brows.

Shannon, Xanadu was about 3/4 down last month. I hiked to the top and dropped a rope to rap and rope solo but as I started down I couldn't figure out where all the ice went. It ended up being a little less than half and most running verglas except a short vert section up top.

tre, the dihedral is a fun route to free solo. Making the first mover off of the big ledge can be a bit nervy but it's a ladder from there depending on which way you go after you make the anchors. I head left up som steep slab and an easy walk off.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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