Mountain Project Logo

fall past belay after placement fails (vid)

Original Post
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
youtube.com/watch?v=yDyn79P…

screen capture of the belay as the climber is falling

Since enough people have said something I will clarify. I had placed a piece before starting up. When I fell my shoe either kicked it out or loosened it or it just broke. Either way it didn't hold and the cam is toast. Secondly I know I shouldn't have lie backed the move. I started the first few moves jamming and the crack went to a size that didn't fit my hand. Foolishly I tired to power through to a nice hold a few moves up with a lie back. As all of you saw that didn't go well.

piece that pulled


from

reddit.com/r/climbing/comme…
Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

I'm thinking I would have put another piece in that crack.

Ally McBeal · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 22

Place protection "EARLY & OFTEN."

Kent Richards · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 81

The cam looks like it could be fine. Cam lobes on Metolius FCUs rotate around like that all the time.

I'd rotate them back, straighten out the trigger wires, and check the lobe movement before tossing it out.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

That guy is lucky he dident chop the rope taking an FF2 over an edge. Looking at the rock, I think the rock went into the smooth void during the fall. If it would have remained over the sharper section of the tower, he might have been toast. He should have placed more gear. I placed two pieces right off the tower when I climbed that pitch. That section eats up gear really easily.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

I know I would've placed more gear. And the cam doesn't look too bad. Definitely not "broken."

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

also did a poor job keeping the rope from going behind his leg...

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

It was probably rope drag.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

'bout dragged his leg up over his head...

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Lucky to not land on the ledge next to your buddy!

keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

Lucky to not land on the ledge next to your buddy!

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

I don't know if it's there or a few feet further up, but I remember a couple moves on that pitch being quite hard. Wet and slippery. And I was on top rope. Thought it was the crux of the climb really.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

I don't know which I'd be more embarrassed about, falling off of a 5.6/5.7, pulling gear in a place where good gear is plentiful, or wearing a Go-Pro. I hope he did not add injury to insult.

Ally McBeal · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 22
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Just so folks are clear ... Im reposting this from somewhere else

I dont even own a go pro =p

Its been a few years since i did nutcracker, but i dont remeber any problems with that particular pitch ... The actual crux on one of the later pitches though risked a bad fall if u blew it on thin gear

;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "fall past belay after placement fails (vid)"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.