Torn ACL

Hi,

Still waiting on some MRI results, but everything right now points towards a torn ACL most likely not requiring surgery. Regardless of the specifics, its not good and my right leg will not be taking a lot of weight for a bit. So my question is, I have a decent strength training strategy for a hang board, but i'm unfamiliar with how to keep my endurance up? Any ideas? I'm also toying with the idea of building a 'jamming' type of hang board. Something to keep myself sane.

Thanks,
Brian

Good luck dude. Had both ACL's done.
Most ACL tears do require surgery - little to no healing occurs.
Only the most minor low-grade sprains heal on their own. If you've been told otherwise I would seek a second opinion.
No use worrying about it till you get MRI results though.
In any event DO NOT fall on that thing. Not worth it.
Bigger fish to fry - your strength will come back, ACL not so much.

Nico's spot on. If it's a torn ACL, something will need to be done to fix it. (I had mine done when I was 16). Recovery is 6 months, though depending on your doctor, you can begin walking anywhere from 0-4 weeks.

Jamming hangboards can be fun...but way more painful than the real thing.

If you do anything, I'd do roped and keep that leg a "dead leg."

I know a climber who manages with an unrepaired torn ACL. He can do things with that knee which almost make you want to throw up.

But I don't think it is a good idea if you want to do anything beyond very controlled motions with your legs. Trail-running, skiing, boulder-hopping, and ACL-less knee may have some bad instabilities.

I'm pretty damn old, and completely ruptured my ACL when I was 68. Had it repaired. Although I was back climbing after 7 months, it took me two years before I could go on trail runs, and now I always use poles for them. But for me it was definitely the right choice, and I suspect that would be the case for most climbers.

I'm 50 and tore my ACL and MCL in a skiing accident two years ago January. At the time of the accident, I couldn't weight my right leg without my knee buckling out from under me. My surgeon wanted to hold off on repairing the ACL until the MCL healed. By the time that happened, I'd decided to hold off on surgery on the advice of my PT. So far, so good: I ski with a brace, but hit 65 MPH last year and returned to skiing off piste. I boulder and have taken some significant falls from height. I'm back climbing at full strength. I took up a new sport--mountain biking--to help keep leg strength. Maybe I'm an outlier--my PT said I had a "tight" knee capsule--but I just want to say that surgery isn't the only option.

Thanks Guys, I'm meeting with an orthopedist tomorrow. Radiologist described it as a high-grade ACL tear saying there is pretty much nothing intact. Doc said I can't really do much more damage to it pre-surgery, so I'll maybe get some toproping (keeping it as a 'dead leg') in while the weather is nice. I have some ideas brewing for my hangboard plan. Thanks.

You can do more damage to the minicus. Don't do anything stupid that will hamper you in the future decades of climbing.

I'm so sorry to hear about your torn ACL! My friend tore hers while bouldering in a gym this winter. My friend was told that she did not need to have surgery, however if she wanted to do all the things she loved again then she most certainly would. My friend is a climber, hiker, backpacker, and badass canoer. Of course she opted for the surgery! Steph Davis has a whole bunch of blog posts on her road to recovery after tearing her ACL. I suggest you check them out. Here is one to get you started: highinfatuation.com/blog/a-…

Good luck with the recovery! I am recovering from injuries of my own at the moment and it is never fun.