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JTree route recommendations - small-ish cracks?

Original Post
Alissa Doherty · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 60

I'll be making my first trip out to JTree this March and I'm looking for some route recommendations (and perhaps a distraction from watching the snow pile up outside my office).

Since I have no idea what grade I'll be comfortable climbing in JTree, hoping for some tips on great climbs with smaller cracks (like 0.75" and smaller). I prefer climbs that are easier to protect...but I already bought my plane ticket so I'll take what I can get!

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

check out:
popular mechanics, course and buggy

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

Do you mean 0.75" (yellow alien/smallest C4/etc), or #0.75 Camalot/C4 size (which is about 1.25")? If it's actual inches, then you're looking for "super thin cracks" - many of which will be protected by small nuts. A vague rating range would be good too, since most cracks that thin (or at least cracks sustained that thin) tend to be quite hard!

Drederek · · Olympia, WA · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 315

Taxman seemed thin to me, at least thru the crux.

Alissa Doherty · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 60

Awesome thanks, I'm really excited about all these recommendations! Equinox is above my pay grade but looks like it can be toproped.

Greg, sorry, I did mean #0.75 cam although 0.75" is actually one of my favorite sizes so fire away if you have something in mind. Anything from 5.easy to mid-5.11. Or harder if it's possible (and acceptable) to TR.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

You might wish to climb:

Invisibility Lessons...5.9

At Future Games Rock.

have fun in Josh.

D F · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 406

If you like green/red Camalot sized cracks, the "Heart of Darkness" (5.11a) is a must. It's short but very clean and steep, like Indian Creek on granite. Mantle over the lip at the top for full send points.

Edit to add: "Wangerbanger" (5.11) looks spectacular as well for .75-Camalot lovers, but I wasn't able to get around to it while I was there.

Alex Whitman · · Chattanooga · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 440

Try out the Exorcist at Hall of Horrors. It was a highlight of my recent trip and in the fingery-ish sizes. Well protected and unique features.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Some good recommendations thus far but it would be more helpful if you had an idea of what you were looking to try and how hard you climb at your home crag. Having said that, also look at:

Right Baskerville Crack
Tossed Greens
Sphincter Quits
Hot Rocks
Martin Quits
Mr. Bunnies Refund Check
Prepackaged
Heart and Sole (though the crux is the face leading to the crack)
Lickety Splits (only 5.7 but the upper half of the climb is runout face)
Poodles are People Too

All of those are easier .10 (with the exception of Lickety Splits and Hot Rocks, which is .11c). There's a ton of stuff I know I'm forgetting, but ask around and you'll find it.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,060

Here's some ideas:

Popular Mechanics, Tossed Green, Right Baskerville crack (all same area)
Everything at Hemingway with a lot of stars (except White Lightning which is wide)
Woman's Work is Never Done
Tinker Toys
Friendly Hands (only named well if you hand jam 0.75 camalot)
Bird of Fire
Rubicon
Cut Thin to Win
Light Saber

Tons more, those are just a few to add to the list...

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

^^^
I'm thinking you probably did the direct start, which climbs directly up to the base of the crack (vs. the standard start, which is way to the right and traverses the length of the horizontal to the upper part of the crack). Terrific route.

kmyee · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 16

Sail Away
Wild Wind

Both climbs are in the finger crack size and right next to each other. Sail Away is a must do for 5.7 - 5.8, and Wild Wind is worth doing while you're there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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