Knee replacement

Anyone had any experiance with getting a knee replacement as it relates to rock climbing? Looks like I'm not to far off on one.

I'm interested to hear what everyone has to say and send my condolences your way man. I hope some other treatment shows effective. What'd you do to your knee?

I guess I need clarification: is it a joint replacement, or reconstruction? I only have experience in the reconstruction part of the world. I blew my ACL, partially tore my MCL, tore my meniscus in 3 places and broke the tibia plateau in 3 places. Got a graft off my hammy for the new ACl, couple of screws to the bone and I feel almost normal when climbing crack. More fear of falling 6+ feet to the ground and re-injuring it than anything else. Do do do YOUR rehab!!!

Just got old, the knee hasn't been dependable for two years, I can climb fine currently just can't get to and from the climbs very well. Medial compartment is bone on bone w/ grade 4 arthritis which they tell me is the top of the scale so at least that portion will be replace, perhaps the whole thing. Wondering the effect of this operation on climbing motion and what the recovery time people have experianced. My range of motion in the knee is such I can't high step for nothing at this point. I've heard up to a year for total recovery also.

You can still climb with a total knee arthroplasty (TKA). The knees are designed to have 0-135deg of range of motion, which should be more than enough for 99% of the moves you'd need to do climbing. The only drawback, besides recovery, is that your knee may get cold on ice-climbing or very cold rock days, but a neoprene sleeve would mitigate that. The recovery will take a while, but is actually faster than an ACL. It would take around 9-12mo to feel 100% though. I bet you could be back gently toproping by 8wks. Really work your rehab for range of motion and strength. The great majority of patients, even super active ones, are very pleased with their TKAs.

The real limitations would be no running, and no consistent carrying of heavy weight (such as a week-long backpack with >45lb pack). You would also need prophylactic antibiotics whenever you got dental work.

Andrew's prognosis and advice is what I've heard from several skiers and a climber who've had TKAs. I had one late last November at the age of 67 after my knee deteriorated so badly that I couldn't walk more than half a block. I've been doing PT religiously for the past five months and plan to begin TR'ing easy climbs at the end of May. I'll keep you posted.

BTW, if you'd information about my surgeon and more details about recuperation, send me a private email through MP

Tombo wrote:Anyone had any experiance with getting a knee replacement as it relates to rock climbing? Looks like I'm not to far off on one.

One of the people in our local climbing club had both knees replaced at the same time. Just over six months later, he crushed me on a 13 mile hike with serious elevation gain / decent, about 2,000' in 2 miles. He said he is climbing at the same grades as before the replacement and is quite happy to be pretty much pain free. Email me if you would like to get in contact with him and get more details, I'll pass your email address to him.

No knee replacement, but for what it's worth, I had an ACL replacement as well; mine came form my patellar tendon. The only impediments are that I don't do are jump off from high boulders, and I'm wary of deep single leg squats on the affected leg.

My father (61 years old) had two total knee replacements back to back a couple years ago. He was in a bad way before he got them done - could barely walk the dogs - but he did exceptionally well with the surgeries, recovered quickly, and got his life back. Climbing isn't very hard on the knees anyhow, I imagine the motion would benefit mobility and healing time if anything.

Six months after having my left knee replaced I am enjoying easy routes at the climbing gym. Everything is better than it was for the five years before the surgery. I am optimistic about returning to rock climbing but I worry about the effects of ice climbing on the longevity of the new parts. Can anyone help?

For the benefit of anyone who is interested and/or putting it off:

I had a TKR in early October 2014. Severe arthritis, but still had full range of motion.

So right now I'm about 13 weeks out. Here's what I can tell you, although I do not guarantee my results are typical:

Off crutches at 2 wks. Walking somewhat normally at 4. I was able to climb indoors (toprope) at 8 weeks. (OK'd by orthopedist and encouraged by physical therapist) This did not hurt.
At 12 weeks, I've gradually ramped up from the easy stuff to TR 5.11 (a few letter grades under my best efforts) and have just started leading on moderates. (again, indoors, but it is winter in Colorado). This with a padded floor and trusted belayer. I took a hike on a rocky, snowy trail yesterday. No ill effects from any of this, except being tired.

Would I be able to climb outdoors at this stage? Yes, but I'd limit it to an easy approach, wouldn't lead, and something easy. I am thinking that by this spring, all will be good. A younger person would probably bounce back faster.

The big effects on climbing: you'll take 8 weeks off, and lose fitness and muscle mass (I sure did). I did do weight machines at the gym to try to keep some strength, but this was only somewhat effective. (Free wts not recommended post-op)

The surgery is quite painful, and you are required to take large doses of narcotic painkillers in order to endure the physical therapy (also quite painful). You must see a PT 2-3 times a week for at least 8 weeks post-op -- this to regain range of motion. You will not climb while this is going on. Your body needs the rest and your knee is healing. Even with insurance, the PT can get expensive with co-pays. You will do a lot of stretching and strengthening exercises on your own every day, probably through the first year, and perhaps the stretching goes on forever.

The range of motion cited by the expert above is a little high -- 115-120 degrees flexion is typical of the majority of patients. I have that now, will probably get close to 130, but a) I am flexible to start with and b) OC. My current level of flexibility feels adequate for most climbing. I cannot say for >5.12.

My operative knee is now completely stable (was a wobble board before), and stronger than the other one (which also needs surgery). It's still stiff. Feels better when I am working it hard.

Other impacts to be aware of: the painkillers have severe digestive side effects, even for people with iron guts. You then get more drugs for the side effects, etc. It is hard to sleep for many weeks afterward. Which makes you tired and weak. Depending on which knee is done you may not be able to drive for a while. Plan on taking 4 wks off work -- you won't feel like working. Isolation, depression, etc common. If you do not have family, recruit some friends to visit and help out a bit, esp. first week.

IMHO: I would not have a 'double' TKR. This would not give you a leg to stand on for getting out of chairs, rehab, etc. So I think it would prolong recovery. My ortho and PT agree on that. Both of them are good climbers themselves, so it helped me to feel more confident that they understood how I use my knees, etc. And they did not say 'you cannot do that again'. They just said, "You cannot hit the ground".

I was in fair shape before surgery -- climbing regularly -- but had given up hard approaches, long hikes etc due to pain. Could not climb an 'open book' stem problem of most any grade, due to pressure on knees. I did see my PT several months before and got a set of exercises to strengthen quads, VMO, hips etc. in preparation. Seems like a good idea. Also, if you don't have one, get a decent spinning bike. You'll need it for home rehab and fitness recovery.

FYI: I am +55, have an extremely low pain threshold, and female. The first two variables (age, tolerance) would probably impact your experience.

Good luck!

Hi, I'm 62 and have been climbing for ten years-nothing above a 10b. I also am a crossfitter but haven't been able to keep up because of my knees-I just do modifications. I am scheduled for a TKR in two weeks. I am still climbing and up until recently have not had pain although I did notice that after a ten week holiday with no excercise I wasn't limping as badly. Now climbing hurts but I keep going because I want to maintain my fitness-I also do slow bike rides several times a week-for two half hour sessions. My surgeon says rock climbing will be out-the joint isn't designed for that. I can't imagine life with our climbing-it's the thing I love the most. I can't help but think that the surgeon doesn't really understand climbing because it's low impact-and yes the getting to the climb and getting back has been brutal. I really need to believe that I can return to climbing-I'll let you know what happens.

Healthy:

Your bionic knee will be just fine for climbing if you do the physical therapy. (You need to be able to mostly straighten it, and bend to 125 degrees. That's probably less range of motion than you have right now, and within the standard post-surgical target range.) Your surgeon doesn't understand the sport. S/he probably thinks it's bouldering or soloing, and you might fall and hit the ground. Which the knee is not designed to withstand, although they are tremendously strong. My surgeon is a regular/strong rock climber & so is the orthopedist who referred me to him. They are both tops in their field and assured me I would be up and at it again. And I am. Hiking seems much less painful. I am your age. There are two other even older guys at my climbing gym who have had knee replacements. All working fine. Go for it, come back and try climbing again after rehab, and I bet it goes well. {Not so sure about the box jumps @ Crossfit, however. ; ^ ) ] I have a renewed enjoyment for just getting to climb again, any grade, any kind of climb. I hope you do too.

Good luck!

QdeBees: Thank you ! Those are encouraging words and fit with what I was thinking. I will be pleased if I can climb at any level, and I want to long distance walk and hike too!

healthy,

If you scroll up the thread, you'll see that I had a TKR at 67. Once I healed and completed PT, it had no effect on my climbing or hiking and has now withstood a bad 30' fall that broke mt femur and shattered my tib/fib at the ankle joint. If the TKR was done by a competent surgeon, I can almost guarantee you that you can resume climbing and that approaches won't be a problem. Just don't take long falls like mine ....

Thank you Bruce, these words of encouragement mean so much. I only top rope or get someone else to lead so I won't be taking any big falls. Sorry to hear about your accident...that must have been rough.

Bumping for any new updates or other peoples experiences. I am considering a TKR in the near future and am curious how well people are doing with climbing 1, 2, 5+ years after the surgery. How about approaches with a climbing pack? Am living in Lakewood CO and any surgeon recommendations are greatly appreciated. Ideally a surgeon who doesn't tell me to stop climbing after TKR!

I don't have any first hand experience, but I do have an encouraging anecdote. This past January, Broncos inside linebacker Danny Trevathan had a knee replacement.

Let's check in nine months later and see how Danny is doing:

pretty well I think, don't know about Forsett though

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:I don't have any first hand experience, but I do have an encouraging anecdote. This past January, Broncos inside linebacker Danny Trevathan had a knee replacement. Let's check in nine months later and see how Danny is doing:

And he probably had the work done by one of the best doctors in the world. Most people are lucky if they can afford to get the repair done period, let alone by a top doctor.

20 kN wrote: And he probably had the work done by one of the best doctors in the world. Most people are lucky if they can afford to get the repair done period, let alone by a top doctor.

Eh, it's not so much about the doctor as it is the whole getting paid $750k annually to work with the best physical therapists in the world 50 hours a week thing. I feel where you're coming from. But A: do't be a negative Nancy, trying to be encouraging here, and B: it's not as much about the doctor as the therapy, sure, no one on here can afford to work so extensively with the type of PT's that the Broncos have at the ready. But with the information available online, paired with dedication to the exercises and an above average PT, similar results shouldn't be seen as impossible, hell simply believing in your own recovery has an effect in the effectiveness of the therapy.

Cindy is asking for recommendations for a climber-friendly surgeon, so I don't think it's unfair to think she has the resources to Have. The. Work. Done. PERIOD. Save your bemoaning about the cost of healthcare for another venue before you change the direction of this thread.

Totally inspirational pic! Thanks! Just like QueenBee and Bruce's story get me psyched to see this as doable. Would love to hear how you guys are doing now with climbing. I know you've had another major injury setback though Bruce.

Yes, I can pay for a great doc, and would prefer a great one that understands climbing and whether the specific replacement they want to do will be good for that. Names are welcome.

I'm especially curious about anyone who has done pure crack climbing with a knee replacement. Hands and feet in, seems like a lot of rotation on the knee and wondering how the tkr holds up. But really, all experiences, good and bad, I'd like to hear.