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Routes in Upper Spire
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Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granite Zeppelin A0 |
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Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Robert's Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up for Grabs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,554 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Aidan Maguire on Oct 21, 2011 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
Description
ONE OF THE ABSOLUTE BEST SPIRES ROUTES. CLASSIC TRAD.
Option 1: Begins Up Fear of flying and at about 45 feet (just under the F of F crux) pulls out of the corner onto the face around right (tricky) There is a bolt around the corner on the face that protects the move 10c) Pulls small roof on gear (10d crux) and then trends up and right (1 more bolt and knobs to sling ) to end P1 at Stepping Stone anchor.
Option 2: Begin up the Fear of Flying direct variation start on slightly tricky gear. Follow bolts past harder moves (11b/c) to gain small roof described in option 1 above
P2 (Brilliant!) works left and up to gain exposed arete on technical slightly run out ground, crossing neckless traverse up and left reaching double roofs next to arete. Climb over first roof with piton protection and traverse left under second roof and fully around left (very exposed) side of arete into 15 feet of superb exposed overhanging juggy (11a) crack before coming back around right to finish up tricky slabs to new anchor. Another anchor can be found by continuing to summit
This is one of the very best, longest and least known routes at the Spires
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