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Carving Pumpkins
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 37
votes
Routes in Sleepy Hollow
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Bewitched S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Carving Pumpkins S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friendly Ghost, The TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nightmare on Crack Street T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Saw TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trick or Treat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Chris Baumann and Bob Gaines, December 2014 |
| Page Views: | 2,249 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jan 29, 2015 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the longest route on the cliff, second from the right.
Start with an undercling, then power through (10b/c; somewhat height dependent) a slightly overhanging bulge to a ledge (3 bolts). Continue up an easier corner on orange varnish past a 4th and 5th bolt, then, at the 6th bolt, move left at a tricky undercling (5.10-), then back right past a 7th bolt up to the top and a chain anchor.
The 7th bolt was not used on the first ascent and was added later to protect the follower (or for toproping) from a bad swing and potential injurious fall.
For a harder (10+) direct finish: move right at the 6th bolt and power over an overhang. No need to clip the 7th bolt for a directional if toproping the direct finish.
Beware of crumbly rock at the ledge half way up and at the very top.
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