The Big Pucker
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2.7 from 58 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Tom Davis, David Rubine 1988 |
Page Views: | 3,367 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 11, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
This route is the second bolted line right of Portent, and is easily identified because the first bolt is about 35 feet off the ground.
Climb up to a 5.10a angled crack (gear) that leads to the first bolt using some awkward jams. After the first bolt a couple of pieces protection should be placed in the crack before pulling a 5.10d bulge. Missing this move is NOT fun (my shoulder still hurts, I scared the hell out of some hikers when Jared let me down bleeding profusely) due to the slab that sits below this move.
After the first bulge, climb a second 10d bulge past three more bolts. A hidden hold makes this section reasonable. after the last bolt the climbing is a little run out, but easy. The top anchors are shared with The Wet Kiss (5.9).
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