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SLAP tear - best road back to climbing?

Original Post
Bridget Croke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

I just got an MRI that found likelihood of SLAP/labrum tear in my shoulder (soft tissue tear). Any climbers have this? Anyone get back to close moving w PT alone (I'm also doing acupuncture). How about surgery? Likely to climb again post surgury? Anyone get blood platelet injections for this injury? Want to make choice with highest likelihood to climb again with the shortest road possible. Thanks for any insight.

smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

Bridget, I had the same issue a few years ago. (granted mine was from trauma) Surgery definitely seemed the way to go, as they were also able to clean out the socket a bit as well, reducing some of my future arthritis from years of abuse... Unfortunately when they were in there with the scope, they also found a complete rotator cuff tear, so had to open me up. After a longer than expected recovery (7 mo. total)and lots of PT, pretty much at 98%. Long pitches of chicken-wings on that side will hurt for awhile, but otherwise climbing fine again. Not sure your degree of tear, but my doc (in Las Vegas, not a climber/sports guy per se) had said that with the arthroscopic surgery alone, a SLAP tear would be back to climbing shape in 8 weeks. Good luck!

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

If you have insurance, your company will probably make you do PT before they authorize surgery. It could work. Be diligent, attentive and careful.

My husband had horrible shoulder problems. When he got them fixed, the doc told me, and I quote, "It was a mess in there." Full-thickness tear, detached bicep tendon, arthritis, you name it, things were shredded. He did PT afterward with a really good practitioner, and is back to 100%. It took a few months before he was fully functional, but he was able to climb carefully after about three weeks.

His 'mess' was due to 40+ years of climbing, portaging, carrying too much weight and assorted other lifelong abuse. It'll be worth your while to find out how your tear happened.

Key to happiness? Patience and not overdoing or rushing your recovery. You'll probably get full function back, but not on as short a road as you want.

Good luck!

Bridget Croke · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0

ThAnks. That actually doesn't sound so horrible.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

I feel like patience is the key. When I was first diagnosed with SLAP tear in my shoulder, my surgeon ordered PT. After what it seemed like a loooong period (6 months) of physical therapy, he gave me a clean bill and I was spared the surgical knife. My shoulder was still not 100% at 6 months - I had to still do shoulder strengthening exercises and after a long day of climbing my shoulder would start aching. I climbed lots of slabby routes at the time, but eventually as I got stronger I think climbing helped to strengthen/develop my upper back muscles so I didn't have to specifically do my shoulder exercises. OTOH, I know people who had the surgery and while they were quick to get back to climbing, their shoulders eventually started to bother them again.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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