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Have you climbed Black Elk in the Winds?

Original Post
Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

Have you climbed Black Elk in the Winds? Is there a climb at Vedauwoo that would simulate the off-fist crux on Black Elk? Which route?

Partner and I would like to try Black Elk this summer. We will be spending a week at Vedauwoo on our way out. I would love to get some practice on that size before taking it into the big hills.

Thanks!

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

Have not done Black Elk, but based on its stated size, off-fists, I'd suggest hitting Pooh Corner, then Shogun, then Hesitation Blues, then Horn's Mother. If you can do the first two with no drama, then you should be ok, but the second pitch of Hesitation Blues will be the real test. If you can do Horn's Mother with no drama, I doubt Black Elk will give you much trouble.

If you need to practice, you could probably run laps on Alice until you forget how normal people enjoy themselves.

J Achey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 155

CA - If you have bigger hands, it may not be "off" fist. It was perfect fists for me, so a little under 4", if that helps ...

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

I wear large size gloves, but only weigh 150 at 5'11" so hands prob skinny...I thought it was true off-fists. Don't climb at Vedauwoo so can't help you there. Led the entire route on-site just last year, thus fresh in my memory. No other pitches of consequence, just fun climbing. I climb a lot of off-width in Zion, Moab Towers, etc....did think that short section was full on for the grade. Remember grunting plenty. Did Keeler Needle the week before as I recall. Those off-width pitches are nothing in comparison for example even though given similar grades.

Good luck and enjoy, excellent route I thought. Those two did the FA on Black Elk and Feather Buttress during the same trip as I recall. Excellent work.

Black Elk Climb

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

I have climbed this gem some years ago, so my memory may be faded a bit.. Also climb at the Woo..

In all of the 200 some routes I have climbed at the Woo I can't seem to think of one that does it!

Train for endurance, as that what that pitch is all about. 150?+ft of pretty much splitter crack.
It starts at a #1BD size, and quickly (as you climb up through the three roofs) gets wider to a #4-5BD
5 is maybe overkill, or for the safety type. We took three #4BDs and I recall pushing them along so
that it didn't feel too run out.

So do lots of 5.10 − 5.11s in one day, even on top rope… of all sizes (pick your crag accordingly!)

Hope that sheds some light on the subject.

PS: Do Feather Butt! Just as awesome, if not better then Black Elk! Same big gear again…
5.9 feather crest pitch has some gear where needed, but is run out elsewhere.
Route finding is a bit harder on that pitch, as it wanders a bit, and is long. Or that's how we did it.
In the top 5 of the 20 routes we've done there.

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

Thanks for all the beta. This is really helpful.

I'm gonna do the route with my girlfriend. I think this is a great objective for us. It's within our realm of possibilities, but it's also gonna really work us. Luckily it'll be the end of a one month road trip, hitting Woo, Tetons, and Devils Tower, so we should be in shape.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

that is my partner who added that comment....it is her photo where you got that info regarding aid...she does have to aid through some of my pitches...in all fairness she does carry some weight (she is an excellent photographer and photo beta writer as you can see)....if we did not split the pitch up, there is no way she could have gotten through it on 2nd...that being said, to avoid carrying more gear for pro (pair of 4's vs quad), I do advise splitting that pitch in two. I recommend one belay right after the roof...good luck with it

"60m or 70m rope. As I alluded to regarding the crux pitch, if I climbed this route again, I would take four C4 #4’s, but you can get by reasonably with 2 if you are willing to break that pitch up. Single from Metolius #00 to C4#4; Doubles from C4#.3 to #3 and four #4's. A few off-set cams or a small rack of nuts are helpful on several of the pitches. I did not see the need for an extra hand piece as some recommend. I would put a much bigger premium on hauling extra 4’s. If you are climbing Feather Buttress on the other side of Warbonnet and are bringing a #5 for its off-width pitch, it would work on the crux pitch in place of a #4 no worries."

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 8,318

Since you are going to Devil's Tower, go climb the 3rd pitch of Tulgey Wood. It might be slightly thinner and only "5.9" but it would be a good test to see if you are ready.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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