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Climbing Partners for the Weekend

Original Post
Matthew Gaines · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

I'm heading back into Vegas tonight and am looking for some climbing partners for the weekend. I just recently moved to Vegas and am looking for steady partners.

Let me know if anyone is interested!

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Hopefully you are looking for partners to climb limestone, granite, or basalt, because it is soaked out in Red Rock. Over a quarter of an inch of rain (a big, big deal in the desert and when it comes to sandstone) has already fallen at the Visitor's Center. Please stay off the sandstone.

Corey McD · · Arvada, CO · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 45

Im in Vegas until tomorrow around 2pm. I'd love to get a morning session in. I am only here for work but I come here often. My best lead is probably a soft 5.11.

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Lone Mountain or Gun Club for you!

Corey McD · · Arvada, CO · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 45

You tell me. I'm not familiar with those two but I will definitely try them out. I'm kinda going to lean on you for some assistance here. Local knowledge would be great. Can we climb and be back by 2? My work has me in a hotel just east of the airport but i don't have a car. I'm willing to take public transportation as far as I can. Also since I am just here for work I didn't bring all my gear. I only have harness, shoes, daisy chain, and an ATC.

If this is too much to handle for a half day trip I totally understand. But if we can work it out that would be great. I'll email you my number.

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

I've already got plans tomorrow, but was saying for you and OP to visit those...

Tronald Dump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

he's being polite, what he really means is stay off the damn sandstone!

Matthew Gaines · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks for the heads up. I didn't know it was raining in Vegas! I've climbed after it has rained in RR (I didn't know you weren't supposed to and won't anymore) and didn't notice any difference in the quality of the rock as far as any holds breaking; however, I've climbed when it has been perfectly dry for days and broken off many pieces of rock. It seems as if sandstone is unavoidably and naturally exfoliating itself.

I guess what I'm asking is if there any scientific resources available comparing the strength of sandstone before and after it rains? I just read the general guidelines posted on this forum regarding the topic, but it seems very subjective. Also, I had asked the visitor center about rain and they didn't have any rules about this either.

What are some other options you'd recommend for climbing around Vegas?

Banana Hamikk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 5

Forget the science behind how sandstone absorbs water like a sponge and weakens the matrix of the rock.....If the visitor center said its ok then its got to be ok...Right?!

Matthew Gaines · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

I wasn't trying to be disrespectful in any way. Just interested about the topic.

Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 215
Matthew Gaines · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0
Neil Kauffman wrote:Matt, how long have you been climbing on sandstone? It's common knowledge that it is a porous rock and very susceptible to moisture permeation resulting in wear and tear or breaking. Ever put water on the rock in Indian Creek to get a cam out? I think many of us are tired of seeing climbers "getting after it" on the sandstone way too soon after the rain. So what's going on? You're here for a short vacation and can't waste any precious days to let the rock recover? Every time I drive past Supercrack on a forced rest day from rain, there's always an astonishing number of clueless or downright unabashed climbers on the routes. Bottom line, don't do it, and if you see others, say something so they might at least be informed or reminded that their actions effect others and the resource. Pitiful and sad.
Well, for me it wasn't common knowledge because I just recently moved to an area where there is sandstone. I'm not trying to be disrespectful in any way, just asking a relevant question in regards to the strength of the sandstone. I've had misconceptions about many things in my life that I once thought were true, but then ended up that they were false. I'm must curious to see if there is any hard evidence supporting the fact in some type of research based format. I don't know why that is pitiful and sad.

Andrew, thanks for the link to the site. I checked that out as well. Hopefully in the future, the website can cite some sources on where they obtained the information that the strength decreases when wet.
Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 215

Matthew,

Pardon Neil - I think he's being inflammatory or is just truly frustrated with people who don't know not to climb in Red Rock after the rain and would rather yell than try to educate. The funny thing is, if he did his experiment with Corbin sandstone from the Red River Gorge, he would get different results than with the aztec and chinle sandstone we have here in Red Rock. It's a semi-unique type of sandstone compared to what they have in KY, WV, and other areas and I don't blame those climbers for not knowing when they come here.

I think it's great you want some hard evidence to back up your actions with.

This article was cited in another forum where someone challenged the "general acceptance" of not climbing after a rain. I will admit to having not read the article in its entirety, so it is pretty ignorant of me for posting it. If you truly want hard evidence though, perhaps you'll read it and let me know if we are all full of it.

academia.edu/5478911/Interp…

Andrew Yasso · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 215

Absolutely, and I understand your frustration. It's challenging - I work and live here as a guide and I have to turn away work and explain to frustrated guests why we can't climb due to rain.

Today for instance, I was able to go out for half a day and take my folks rappelling and hiking (Calico Tanks is full of water and beautiful). I felt comfortable rappelling because we were just rapping down a wall that is rarely climbed and we weren't using the rock to make upward progress so we broke no holds and effectively did no damage. It makes it very hard for me though, to then walk over to climbers who are passing by and try and explain to them why climbing isn't the best community and resource driven choice, let alone coming from a safety standpoint after rain.

Furthermore, I look like a jerk to my guests because I'm not letting us climb, while others walk by when it is literally still drizzling and ask for directions to the panty wall. I guess I prefer to believe that most people are just ignorant instead of rude and malicious, but that's partially just because I would lose my mind otherwise.

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

Mathew,

You could go to the Keyhole or just south of there for some polished multipitch granite slab climbing and good bouldering. About 20 miles south of the 95/93 junction. If you're fast you could be done by 1 or 2. Alternately there is bouldering and 3 or 4 top rope set ups at Big Sandy which you approach off Warm Springs and Lake Mead Blvd.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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