Is a bolt ladder C0 or A0?
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"In all my years of climbing I've never heard anyone use the term C0.
The correct term is French Free." C0/A0 = "French Free"? Help me to understand that one please... ??? |
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Locker wrote:"In all my years of climbing I've never heard anyone use the term C0. The correct term is French Free." C0/A0 = "French Free"? Help me to understand that one please... ???It´s the (condescending) expression us Euro´s use to describe grabbing any fixed gear and yarding on it. The French used to regard it as part of "free climbing" as opposed to completely nailing a route. |
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Jim, |
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A source as authoritative and none other than "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills" defines A0/C0 as an occasional move of aid or French free for upward progress, but generally the climb is free. A1/C1 is "real aid climbing" as they define it, Locker. |
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Teece, |
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Ours is A1, Locker (I guess, since bolts aren't clean. For us it was A1, for every other party it is C1F, with our non-clean gear left fixed). |
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This thread is B0 ;-) |
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Crap! I posted ours wrong then. (the others as well) |
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"This thread is B0".
LOL! |
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I always thought A0 was simply taking a rest on ones gear. A1 was pulling on said gear to get past that annoying 12d spot. |
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Adam Stackhouse wrote:I always thought A0 was simply taking a rest on ones gear. A1 was pulling on said gear to get past that annoying 12d spot. But what did I know back then?A0= yarding on bolts A1= yarding on gear you've placed |
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"I always thought A0 was simply taking a rest on ones gear."
Dude above already called that one. It's B0. In Europe it's referred to as BS... ;-) |
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Trust me Locker, this boy knows his BO.... |
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Fucking A Adam... |
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Good enough for me. |
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What if I could push the bolts into the rock without a hammer, would that then be C0 because it is hammerless, or would it be A4/5 because what I'm climbing could hardly be called rock? |
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No, they are not, and I'm totally willing to say the Fish guy wrong. ;-) |
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If we say a bolt ladder is A0, then we lose the ability to easily describe a climb that is almost all free, but may have an impossibly blank section were most people yard on something to pass it.
A bolt ladder is full on aid climbing, which is A1 where all the pieces would hold a fall. A "cam ladder" or "pin ladder" or "chock ladder" is also A1 or C1. |
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Teece, |
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A0 or C0. No aiders are required. Fixed gear such as bolts may be in place, or the climber may be able to simply pull on a piece of gear to get through the section, a technique sometimes called French free. |