Guide book for Alpine / Mountaineering / Ice

What are your recommendations for a good guide book for PNW alpine climbing and mountaineering routes?

Same question for ice climbing.

Thanks!

Beckey Cascade Alpine Guides and Nelson Cascade Select Volume 1 and 2

clint helander wrote:Beckey Cascade Alpine Guides and Nelson Cascade Select Volume 1 and 2

Thanks! i'll look into those

Beckey's guides great because they are all inclusive. They have most routes ever done in the area, which is nice for obscure routes or finding a non popular option for a busy weekend. However many times the route descriptions are very general. Such as "Follow the ridge for 5 pitches passing the gendarmes on the left or right. Careful navigation to follow the easiest line with keep the rating in the low 5th class." Don't get me wrong I am not one that wants to know where ever foothold and handhold of a climb is. But when I am doing a long multipitch route and have a complicated descent to figure out, having a little more information is good.

I would recommend getting the books "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" Vol 1 and Vol 2 (By Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield). Both great books with most of the classics in the cascades. They generally have much more information per climb. Still enough to give you plenty of adventure and the chance to get lost but much more than Beckey's books.

For ice climbing, get "Washington Ice: A climbing Guide". The best and really only printed guidebook for ice in WA.

Also check out Classic Climbs of the Northwest by Alan Kearney.

Marlin Thorman wrote: I would recommend getting the books "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" Vol 1 and Vol 2 (By Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield). Both great books with most of the classics in the cascades. They generally have much more information per climb. Still enough to give you plenty of adventure and the chance to get lost but much more than Beckey's books. 

How are the volumes broken up?  Is it by area, or is V2 just an expansion of V1?  The books have no "Look Inside" on Amazon, so I can't see what climbs are in each volume....

Volume 2 is just an expansion of volume 1.  I would say the V1 has most of the classics while V2 covers the rest of the classics and starts to had a bunch more that are a little less traveled.

https://www.amazon.com/Cascades-Rock-Muiltipitch-Climbs-Grades/dp/0692552413/ref=pd_sbs_14_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0692552413&pd_rd_r=RQKZT7BNG6XC547B2A7E&pd_rd_w=SjBal&pd_rd_wg=wcuRc&psc=1&refRID=RQKZT7BNG6XC547B2A7E

cascades rock