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Short fixing knot of choice?

Original Post
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I've been using the double figure 8 with bunnyears. Never had issues untying it. Has there been any research on if the knot will roll if loaded in opposite directions? Think a lead fall while the 2nd is jugging.

I've seen the butterfly and clove hitch set up, but so far the double 8 with two bights has been easier to tie and equalize fast.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
JeffL wrote:I've been using the double figure 8 with bunnyears. Never had issues untying it. Has there been any research on if the knot will roll if loaded in opposite directions? Think a lead fall while the 2nd is jugging. I've seen the butterfly and clove hitch set up, but so far the double 8 with two bights has been easier to tie and equalize fast.
I use the same knot. It's solid.
DylanJK · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 386

I've either used a double figure 8 or figure 8 and clove while short fixing.

From now on I will use the double figure 8 and not a clove. I suppose a clove on the followers side would be ok to untie (albeit hard), but I will never again tie a clove on the leader side.

Lesson learned- I've never fallen short fixing (that's why I haven't learned until now). But I fell this past weekend aid soloing in the rain. I used a clove hitch on my ground anchor. The rope was soaking wet and I still can't untie the knot! The rope is still drying, perhaps it will be ok once dried but does anybody have any advice on how to untie this ridiculously tight clove?

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200
DylanJK wrote: The rope is still drying, perhaps it will be ok once dried but does anybody have any advice on how to untie this ridiculously tight clove?
Use your wall hammer, if that doesn't work, knife.
Mickey Sensenbach · · San luis obispo CA · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 140

Easy, fast, safe, and un ties!

Double figure eight with butterfly for leader

I have yet to whip on it, but have done some hard penjis on it, it unites easy every time!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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