Any ASCA plans to replace bolts on Sandstone Samurai?

While climbing Rock Warrior last week I looked a few feet to the left and shuddered at the old rusty bolts on Sandstone Samurai. Not that the route gets climbed all that often, but those old rusties aren't encouraging. Also one of the anchors near the top is a knifeblade and old bolt. Perhaps that should stay as is (simply to keep a bit of historic adventure to it) unless Van Betten or Nordblom gave the OK to sink another bolt in the anchor.

You could always add the route to the sticky thread "Bad Bolts in Las Vegas" and that may help get the bolts replaced.

clint helander wrote:While climbing Rock Warrior last week I looked a few feet to the left and shuddered at the old rusty bolts on Sandstone Samurai. Not that the route gets climbed all that often, but those old rusties aren't encouraging. Also one of the anchors near the top is a knifeblade and old bolt. Perhaps that should stay as is (simply to keep a bit of historic adventure to it) unless Van Betten or Nordblom gave the OK to sink another bolt in the anchor.

There may be a way of getting to the top of SS from the top of RW. I remember thinking the anchors on SS would at least hold body weight long enough to do the work. ;) If I had an experienced bolter with me, I'm sure we could figure out a way to get up there and do the work. I'd be game. Re-equipped, SS would likely get a few more ascents per year.

i'm almost positive that from the top of RW you could traverse or swing over and bolt from the top down.

Perhaps from Refried Brains?

Stone Nude,

Thanks for all the replacement effort! You must be popular among the local community. I've done quite a bit of replacement effort myself and just recently moved into the area. I know the ASCA usually distributes the hardware among a few individuals. Are you the person to get into contact with regarding hardware?

Maybe i'll see you at the beer gathering that's coming up. Take care.

Killis, that's great... Curious how you plan on getting to the top of this thing to replace them?

For those that might be considering this, you could swing over from Rock Warrior but you would not be able to replace the last pitch, and probably not the second-to-last pitch either. I doubt you could get over to it from Refried Brains - there are two other routes (also in need of replacement) between S.S. and Refried Brains.

I'm not saying approaching from the top would be impossible, just not trivial. Personally, I think by far the easiest way to do it would be to climb the route, but I'd be unwilling to do so again. However, if someone is really motivated and wants to climb either American Ghostdance or the Flesh with me, I will climb either of those and from those one could swing over to S.S.

As far as the anchor bolts are concerned, rap hardware should NOT be used on the anchors - just standard hangers. Descent is easy if you top out (swing over to Rock Warrior), but if you want to bail off this route you should HAVE to leave gear. The pin should NOT be replaced with a bolt - at least not at this time. This route is committing and should remain that way.

i agree with josh, hence why i originally discussed leaving the pin at one anchor.
I don't live in vegas (alaska) so i won't be able to help with the effort, but having climbed many of those routes you mentioned Stone Nude, i appreciate your effort,

let me know how it goes and when it goes

cheers