Best Beginner Alpine climb in Unites States

My climbing partner and I are trying to decide on a mountain to climb in the united states besides Hawaii and Alaska alpine style next winter.

We live in Michigan and have more than enough ice climbing and trad experience. We are just ready to put the skills together and fly out West next winter and attempt an alpine style ascent up a mountain.

Any suggestions?

The North Cascades and the Front Range of CO have the best alpine climbing all seasons in my very biased opinion.

I second the above. I'd also like to throw in the Sierras. Depending on the snow pack and conditions you can find all sorts of mountain goodness. Not to mention the best weather...ever, and you can always head down to the Alabama Hills or Bishop for a day or two and warm up in the sun. Whitney is obviously a hot commodity, but there is plenty of other technical peak bagging to be had.

What about the Grand Teton during winter?

This might not be as technical as what you're looking for but it's on my to-do list and looks like a good time.

mountainproject.com/v/evere…

The Bugaboos, just a couple hours north of the border in B.C. have some of the best alpine climbing in the world. + a deluxe hut at the base of the moraine.

Suggest the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire as a starter. Then, if you feel good (hard not too - the west ridge is uber fun!) jump on the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire.

It would help us out if you could give some more detail on what type of difficulty level you are looking for and the other experience you have. Have you ever gone mountaineering or alpine climbing before? Glacier travel? Backcountry ski experience? Avalanche training? Do you want a summit or just a long ice/mixed route? How long are you willing to hike and are you prepared to camp out? Etc.

I am not an ice/alpine guy but I have a friend who thinks the above linked "everest" route in utah is awesome.

Some random ideas include Mt. Hood North Face Right Gully (WI3, steep snow, minimal glacier crossing, 7 mile hike in), in fact Hood has some great options for alpine routes close to Portland and the airport as long as you get good weather. You might also consider Reid Headwall on Hood.

Another option in the PNW is the Stuart Range near Leavenworth (fly to Seattle), especially couloir routes out of Colchuck Lake (8 mile hike), the classic one being Triple Couloirs on Dragontail (WI4/5.8, steep snow), but a more reasonable beginner option being something on Colchuck Peak (AI2-3).

I think that you should keep in mind that conditions can be fickle on ice routes here (PNW) and that you will end up doing lots of snow travel in steep terrain. Multiple plans, flexibility, and access to a car to drive a substantial distance will be key to success.

climbing2man wrote:What about the Grand Teton during winter?

I think the avalanche hazard in winter would make it not a beginner alpine climb.
In summer it's a good beginner alpine climb.

SamandHam wrote:It would help us out if you could give some more detail on what type of difficulty level you are looking for and the other experience you have. Have you ever gone mountaineering or alpine climbing before? Glacier travel? Backcountry ski experience? Avalanche training? Do you want a summit or just a long ice/mixed route? How long are you willing to hike and are you prepared to camp out? Etc.

We are looking for a summit ascent. We would like to go for a summit that can take two or three days. My partner has some mountaineering experience, has climbed a few of the mountain peaks in the grand tetons. We don't have avalanche safety experience. Then together we have lead ice climbing experience and trad leads. Along with multipitch experience.

What we are mainly looking for is our first alpine style climb summit that would at least have one night spent on the mountain for the ascent. With difficulty for trad climbing the max would probably be at 5.9 and for Ice max would be WI5

Umm I would really reconsider the "winter" thing. If you're trying to climb big western objectives in the winter these days and you aren't at least approaching on skis or board (with avy tools and skills) then you're doing it wrong.

Changing the winter thing would open you up to lots of fantastic alpine routes during their best seasons and probably yield more suggestions.

You mean 5.9 in boots and pons? I don't think there are mixed climbs in the lower 48 that you will want to use rock shoes on in winter. For that matter I don't think there are many alpine climbs that are going to take you 2-3 days and offer technical difficulty unless you are talking about a winter ascent of Rainier which would be AI3 at most and would involve a lot of glacier travel and avy skills that you have no experience with. It seems to me that while you have a significant amount of experience cragging, you have almost none of the basic skills for winter alpine climbing. What you are describing is a grade V-VI (2-3 days) with 5.9 mixed and vertical ice. That is the type of climb that can take the best alpinist in the world multiple attempts. Heck, you basically just described the Super Canaleta on Fitz Roy!

My suggestion would be to start with a climb you can do in a day, or an overnight with a camp at the base of the climb. Something with short technical difficulties that will allow you to gain a lot of experience on the in between stuff (moderate snow) without subjecting yourself to crevasse or avy danger. Look at the logistical details and read trip reports for climbs you are interested in to get a better idea of the conditions and challenges you will encounter outside of the "crux" pitches because frankly, getting to and down from the climb will be your crux, especially if the conditions are anything besides ideal.

Also, don't plan on hitting a 13er or 14er right off the plane from MI, go for something lower or give yourself several days and do some acclimatization climbs. Cragging is great but unless you're also an avid distance runner, xc skier or road cyclist you will struggle.

Nico C wrote:Umm I would really reconsider the "winter" thing. If you're trying to climb big western objectives in the winter these days and you aren't at least approaching on skis or board (with avy tools and skills) then you're doing it wrong. Changing the winter thing would open you up to lots of fantastic alpine routes during their best seasons and probably yield more suggestions.

+1 to Nico

Also, you seem caught on the idea of doing an alpine style climb. You should know that every climb in the US is done in alpine style because the mountains aren't big enough. Alpine style is only relevant as the antithesis of fixed ropes and stocked camps (expedition or siege style) which are almost never used in North America except for big walling on el cap and guiding on Denali.

This guidebook has a lot of great ideas for summer ascents in CA, and is honest / upfront about the pitch composition. Just don't underestimate the elevation in the Sierra.

Petit Grepon in RMNP is a popular "beginner" route with nice exposure, though it isn't a dramatic topout to a high peak per se.

Many a solid crag climber has been spurned on their early alpine climb forays by being underprepared for the approach / descent. Get some water jugs to throw in your backpack, and do your step-ups.

If I had a better approach, I might actually climb decent.

For winter or springtime, I think the Eastside Sierra is most favorable for managing avalanche hazard -- because it's a "maritime" snowpack, but with more reliable sunshine than the Cascades.
Colorado and Canadian Rockies have a "continental" snowpack, which tends to harbor dangerous weak layers for a long time.

The Cascades often don't get cycles of bright sunshine and clear night skies which are needed to consolidate new snowfall. I've had too many close calls with snow slides in Washington in April and May.
. (also the glaciers in the Cascades have many actual crevasses, while the Sierra "glaciers" have very few outside of a bergschrund or moat).

Though the Eastside Sierra has a very dramatic relief (like 10000 feet difference between the valley floor and tops of the 14ers visible close above - not hiding somewhere in the interior) - many of the approaches to the classic alpine are pretty friendly compared to some Washington thrashes.

A classic mixed route on the Eastside would be like North Palisade by the U-notch. I think there's other ice and rock routes nearby. The hiking approach to camp in the North Palisades is mellow, then it's a plenty wild place once you get in there.

Mt Whitney (and adjacent Mt Russell) has some moderate rock classics (in winter or spring they would have adventurous snow/ice approaches). Overall a very spectacular area -- if it had mechanical lifts people would say it was like Chamonix. (and if you summit Mt Whitney, somebody back home might have a clue that they are supposed to be impressed by what you accomplished).

Rock Creek area has worthy peaks less than 14000, notably Bear Creek Spire for rock routes, but other peaks with snow/ice and rock routes. Very mellow approach in to camp.

I think there's at least three guidebooks now that cover those and other well-known classic alpine routes on the Eastside Sierra, which gives some idea how popular it is.

(if you can adjust your definition of "winter" to start the last weekend in April, then many of the hiking approaches to alpine routes on the Eastside suddenly get much shorter).

Ken

Lone Pine Peak.

Yup. Lone Pine Peak in the Sierra.

what about the Wind River Range in Wyoming? I've heard of some potential over there

climbing2man wrote:what about the Wind River Range in Wyoming? I've heard of some potential over there

Well, if you want to play for all the marbles on your first throw...
The Wind Rivers are big, wild and empty during the winter. They're also not going to give you multiday routes, just multiday approaches and serious avalanche danger. Consider that the entire range (more or less) is inside a wilderness area, and even the towns on the plains next to the range have lousy cell service. Virtually any injury while on route will get you killed because there's no possibility of rescue.
Personally, I'd look for something a little bit closer to the road to get to know myself before I hung it all out there like that.
I'd focus on something in the PNW or the Sierras, were I you.