Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jesse Huey and Ryan Vachon
Page Views: 3,475 total · 31/month
Shared By: Jesse Huey on Jan 13, 2015
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Noun.
An artifice or expedient used to evade a rule, escape a consequence, hide something, etc.

This is an awesome, new, mixed addition gaining the ice to the right side of the super classic Talisman.

Pitch 1: start with the first pitch of the Talisman proper, then move right across the ledge system 50 feet to the right of the start to the Talisman's 2nd pitch.

Pitch 2: look for a thin seem and a single bolt leading to a hanging corner (gear) and a overhang. At the corner, move left below the roof to a blind bolt just left of the corner around the arete. Climb overhanging rock protected by 2 more bolts with increasing difficulty to thin ice and a small stance. It is possible to continue on up the steep ice, but this stance was used by the first ascentionists (belay off ice screws). M7. ;)

Pitch 3: climb steep ice to the top of the Talisman, and belay off a tree or screw anchors. WI6.

Rack: a single set to # 3 with nuts. (The anchor for the belay at the start of the mixed pitch: large Pecker, #3, & #0.75 in choss)

Rappel the Talisman.

Photos

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