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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Lower Merced Ri…
> At. Reed's Pinn…
> Reed's Pinnacle
The Deer Route
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.7 from 6
votes
Routes in Reed's Pinnacle
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11c Toprope Arete TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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589 (Per Clint Cummins Guide Book) Unknown (Per Sloan Guide Book) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beyond Lunacy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Beyond the Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bong's Away Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bongs Away, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Children of Light S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Chingando T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Deer Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dr. Fun Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dream Easy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ejesta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flatus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Footprints S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Independence Pinnacle, Center T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Iota, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lunatic Fringe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magical Mystery Tour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ol' 5.10 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Olga's Trick T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Open Your Eyes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phantom T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Porter's Pout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Erect T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Reed's Pinnacle Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Remnant, Center, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Remnant-Left Side, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Remnant-Right Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rocket In My Pocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rorp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scrunchy-Mungy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spring Fever T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Steppin' Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stone Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stone Groove T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Groove (full) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,150 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Apr 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is a fun caving adventure up the inside of the Reed's Pinnacle. It's a good pick for a warm day, or as a night-climb since you need a headlamp anyways. It's possible to start it either from the Left Side route, or from a hole in the wall at the start of P2 of the Direct route. Starting from the Direct route is probably the more classic option.
The chimney is straightforward for the most part. You can follow the inside of the Reed's Direct crack for a ways, but eventually you need to traverse left because the top of the chimney is capped by a bunch of chockstones. Don't place gear too high or you'll probably get terrible rope drag later on, and I'd worry about the ropes dislodging loose stuff from under the chockstone roof.
The exit is directly below the "tunnel through" on P3 of the Regular Route. This section is a bit of a squeeze. This "crux" defies all conventions of the Yosemite Decimal System, so it's hard to put a grade on. I'm a lightweight at 130lbs, and wiggled through no problem. I think it's tighter than the Narrows on the S-S, so if you found that claustrophobic you'll probably have a hard time with this one. In any case, you can either end the climb atop the large ledge to the right, or continue the traverse up and left if you want to finish on the Regular Route to the top of the pinnacle.
The chimney is straightforward for the most part. You can follow the inside of the Reed's Direct crack for a ways, but eventually you need to traverse left because the top of the chimney is capped by a bunch of chockstones. Don't place gear too high or you'll probably get terrible rope drag later on, and I'd worry about the ropes dislodging loose stuff from under the chockstone roof.
The exit is directly below the "tunnel through" on P3 of the Regular Route. This section is a bit of a squeeze. This "crux" defies all conventions of the Yosemite Decimal System, so it's hard to put a grade on. I'm a lightweight at 130lbs, and wiggled through no problem. I think it's tighter than the Narrows on the S-S, so if you found that claustrophobic you'll probably have a hard time with this one. In any case, you can either end the climb atop the large ledge to the right, or continue the traverse up and left if you want to finish on the Regular Route to the top of the pinnacle.
- A most excellent Trip Report with lots of photos can be found here
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