Odd bolt

1st lead bolt from P1 of C'est la Vie. Replaced 1/25/2015 by a 1/2" SS bolt in the same hole.
Blind hole wedge anchor. The only thing similar that I can find is this:
HD bolt
I think (hope) these aren't very common. We removed it from P1 of C'est la Vie in Eldo yesterday. It appeared to be a rusty Redhead wedge bolt from the outside. We used the bolt spinner attachment to turn it one or two revolutions before it broke into 3 pieces that were easily fished out with a magnet. Not a strong anchor. Plumber's silicone and the stainless SMC hanger really accelerated the corrosion, too.

Route description says the first pitch has a few bolts. Gregger, Thanks for taking the time to replace it. Sounds like a fun climb.

Bolts on the .11 to the left were also replaced last September on the same permit:
Pansee Sauvage hardware

These are usually referred to as "stud bolts" and are not at all uncommon in California. Check out this info, from tests conducted by Duane Raleigh.

There are a few more pictures of stud bolts here

Thanks for the info, Matthew.
I haven't run into any of these here in Eldo until now.
Looks like a poor design in these dimensions. The Mammut ring bolts work on the same principle but are huge by comparison.

Matthew, those aren't stud bolts, stud bolts have expansion sleeves. Of course some people call anything with a threaded head a "stud bolt" but that includes around 10 different types of bolts (not that you can tell from looking at the bolt!).

These are a fairly common type of "hardware store bolts", I've seen them now and then all over the place in 1/4" versions (where they are super sketchy). Unfortunately one FA guy in Yosemite Valley & Tuolumne liked the 1/4" versions, thankfully he wasn't too prolific (he also had a bad habit of not leaving hangers on some of his bolts so you'd need a rivet hanger on free climbs). I've found that about two out of three of the 1/4" ones snap off during removal, at least in good granite.

Thanks for all the replacement work you do Greg!
Sobering to think about what we're clipping a lot of times on these old routes.
I did Laughing at the Moon on Monday and all of it's bolts are rusted and look like those in your photo, from the outside anyway.

I agree, they are not stud bolts. They are not nail drive bolts either. I forget their name, but basically you have to drill the hole to a specific depth, then you hammer the bolt in and the pin on the back hits the back of the hole, drives into the sleeve, and expands the bolt. They are not suitable for climbing and should be avoided.

The type of bolt pictured above is referred to as a "stud bolt" in Duane Raleigh's tests. Per Duane:

"How it Works
Expansion. Drill the hole to exact depth! Stud bolts expand, creating a friction grip, by the pin being driven up into the bottom of the bolt by hammering."

Neither Gregger Man's nor my image has a sleeve in it. Here's a detail of one of these bolts, where the expansion cone (or "pin") enters the body of the bolt:

Duane's wrong, at least as far as the common usage of "stud bolt."

Here's one example of a stud bolt:

powers.com/product_07424.php

Cool, Greg.

Thanks for clarifying. Duane refers to the stud bolt that you link to as a "wedge bolt."