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 ADVANCED
Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(01) Chicken Crack T 
(02) Pin There, Done That? T 
(03) Squeeze Me T 
(04) Pardon Me While I Stem T 
(05) Stoner Crack T 
(06) Pagoda Crack T 
(07) Cody Wasn't Here T 
(08) Flyboys T 
(09) Chimney Route T 
(10) Stembrosia T 
(11) A Comedy of Scarers T 
(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake! T 
Sweet Sarah T 
Why Wouldn'tya? T 

(11) A Comedy of Scarers 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JFx, JMw
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 294
Submitted By: JMayhew on Dec 10, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Joaquin jammin' away

Description 

1. Jam crack, then stem past rotten section to base of chimney and belay off gear. (5.10b) We used a #6 friend to protect the rotten section—probably not absolutely necessary, but other gear might not be that good. (The chimney can be climbed (5.6) as a direct ending within the 1st pitch.)

2. Angle left to dihedral, up and out roof to large ledge. 2 bolts on face finish up to 2-bolt belay/rap station. (5.9+) If you have too much drag, you can belay on ledge and finish face as a quick 3rd pitch.

Location 

If not for the 15’ of nasty rock, this would be a classic. Strenuous hand/fist jamming leads to a clean layback, then underclinging out a roof.
Further along the east face from “Stembrosia,” scramble down a short bulge and around the corner to the NE corner of the formation. 2 cracks head up to a chimney. A large roof can be seen to the left of the chimney. Start in the right crack.
Rap route with double ropes (50 M's OK)

If you scramble up to ledge past anchors, a quick belay back to anchors would be prudent

Protection 

Include double cams to 3.5, toss a 4.0 on, too.


Photos of (11) A Comedy of Scarers Slideshow Add Photo
Starts in R crack, finishes on skyline above left-...
BETA PHOTO: Starts in R crack, finishes on skyline above left-...

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