Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
L to R R to L Alpha
1. Jam crack, then stem past rotten section to base of chimney and belay off gear. (5.10b) We used a #6 friend to protect the rotten section—probably not absolutely necessary, but other gear might not be that good. (The chimney can be climbed (5.6) as a direct ending within the 1st pitch.)
If not for the 15’ of nasty rock, this would be a classic. Strenuous hand/fist jamming leads to a clean layback, then underclinging out a roof.
Include double cams to 3.5, toss a 4.0 on, too.