Obscure, less crowded routes in Yosemite (if there is such a thing)

I'll be stopping into Yosemite at the end of May for a week or so and I'm looking for suggestions on some less traveled, half/full day free climbs in the 5.9-.11(-) range. Long approaches, off-width or the occasional mundge I can deal with, what I hate is waiting in line and/or feeling pressure from other parties while on route. I'm not opposed to climbing in the dark just for a little peace. Yeah, I'm selfish and want the whole route to myself so instead of posting for all to see, you should PM your hidden gem. I promise I won't tell.

There's loads & loads of routes in Yosemite no one does very often.
Find someone with the Meyers, Reid, or Roper guide and pick routes not in the Supertopo book. That will get you most of the way there.

Another thought is to look into some of the non-Valley climbing like little Yosemite Valley that's in the old southern Yosemite guidebook. The stuff up there looks sick and I don't know anyone who has got on it. Do it and report back.

Golden Dawn on Mt Watkins..a premier face/dike climb many pitches.perfect rock.N face of Quarter Dome ..good climbing, long approach and an easy to aid crux...

Right Side of Split Pinnacle 5.8

deserted, always

john strand wrote:Golden Dawn on Mt Watkins..a premier face/dike climb many pitches.perfect rock.N face of Quarter Dome ..good climbing, long approach and an easy to aid crux...

Tim wrote:off-width or the occasional mundge I can deal with

Ho Chi Minh trail on Middle Cathedral. GREAT route. Will not have a line, likely, the approach is like 10 minutes from the car.

Ribbon Candy is supposedly really good - ribbon falls area.

Windfall to Windchill link up (FREAKING GREAT!). Won't have a line.

New climb that has seen traffic but likely to have no line is Voyager fifi buttress.

North Buttress of middle cathedral. If you want a true adventure.

If it's not to hot check out Parkline. Look on Mt Project. Flying in the Mountains and P Line Express are awesome for multi pitch. First 2 pitches of the Dangling Chads are 5 stars and the rest of the route is good too. Tweet this is an awesome pitch. And lots more.

"Obscure, less crowded routes in Yosemite (if there is such a thing)?"

Are you kidding me?? There are MANY THOUSANDS of routes in the valley. Check out the Reid guide. Check out Clint Cummins website web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos…

The climbing traffic in yosemite is highly uneven-- a small number of climbs see the vast majority of traffic. I would guess no more than 5% of yosemite climbs see more than one ascent a year...

Another + 1 for dnb> Ho Chi Minh , south by southwest, freeblast, The CH. Honestly this time of year I really doubt you need to get too obscure to avoid other people

the good book

Arrowhead Arete

Good Book, Book of Job, Stoner's Highway, Mental Block.. All classics and chances are you'll be the only one on em. Use the search tool. You can tell if soemthing's gonna be crowded, in general. Beyond this site... you'll need the reid guide.

But yeah, seriously, there are lifetimes worth of climbs in the Valley that fit your description of 5.9-5.11 no crowds

Is it safe again to hit the Good Book? Last I heard (albeit a while ago) that rockfall was still an issue. Lower Cathedral Rock, Phantom Pinnacle. South by Southwest on Lower Spire. Middle Cathedral Apron. Camp 4 Wall. There's lots of stuff if you look around.

p3+ of Mental Block is beautiful and a great destination if you absolutely love heal-toeing but seems like a pretty severe way to avoid crowds. We gave up at the top of p3.

And south by southwest is often quite packed these days (but still worth doing imo).

Mr. Natural (10c) on the Glacier Point Apron

and

The Good Book (10d) on The Folly

i second the Mr Natural!!!!! Holy shit!

Climbed that this last trip and as soon as we got there, two teams came behind us to climb it too. That finger pitch is insane.

Is the rockfall stabilized over by mr Natural ? Green Dragon is a good start and has a short crux.

If your on the Apron, Sailin' Shoes is a 4 pitch 10C