Too much "beta" on MP... losing sense of adventure

Pontoon wrote:But I was recommended in a training book...

Oh well, that settles it then.

I definitely climb for adventure more than performance. The one sport climbing place I can think of that I have had some real adventures on is Wolf Rock in Oregon- granted there are some gear placements, its mostly bolts. The rock is bizzare, the bolts curious and well spaced, and the formations and setting is truly wild. Can anyone else think of adventurous sport areas?

It also seems like the areas have real adventure climbs people tend to stay away saying they are too dangerous or choss... often the case with the San Rafael Swell

Betabetabeta

Yes, the San Rafeal Swell is filled with nothing but dangerous choss. I would advise never going there. Tell your friends.

I don't need a hold by hold guide on how to climb something but I just want to know that i am starting in the right spot, the general area where i am trying to get to, general grade level of climbing, can i protect it, and any special things to know to ensure that i don't die by getting over into a 5.14 I can't get down from without topping out.

It all depends on what you are going out for. I know plenty of areas with all easy climbs that are fun to just make up your own path to the top. I also know areas if you get off route you are screwed. I have also been to areas where old guide books say there is anchors and there is no anchor left (something that can get you in alot of trouble when the first pitch is 5.8 and the second is a 5.12 that you can't climb and there is no other way down).

Than you got guide books like HP40 that are completely stupid on grading but isn't a problem since you can just drop (unless you go to moss rock and expect to top out something like heart route which is a V1 is you drop or a V6 if you top out 40ft up, may be helpful to note that the finish is a drop not a topout sometimes)

greg t wrote:Yes, the San Rafeal Swell is filled with nothing but dangerous choss. I would advise never going there. Tell your friends.

Agree ..Suitable for climbers only.

Josh Cameron wrote:If you don't want the beta then don't buy the guidebook. Besides, all the hardcore mountaineers know that an adventure is when someone has fucked up so badly that things go sorely wrong. For me, I only want an adventure if no one gets hurt or killed.

What a very strange way to look at adventure....so you think climbers who like adventure are hoping someone will get killed !!!!.. After over 50 years of adventure climbing I am still waiting... Hardcore mountaineers as you call them do make mistakes as do "climbers" who screw on the indoor climbing walls..If some climbers did not take the risk of adventure even climbs like Castleton Tower (which you may have been up)would still be unclimbed. Perhaps the adventure of golf is a safe consideration .

I would like to add that San Rafael swell is a terrible choss fest and should be avoided at all costs.

I think I suffer from "Halfhiemers Disease" - which means I can only remember about half of what I read or am told - therefore I can turn about anything into half an adventure. Add in some random screw ups now and then - and I'm good to go.

Sam Keller wrote:I would like to add that San Rafael swell is a terrible choss fest and should be avoided at all costs.

Your dead right.... just too much over the top really nasty adventure... plus there is rarely anybody around when you have to shout for help ! Advise staying on the sport climbs of Indian Creek

couldn't you just not read MP if you want adventure?

All kidding aside, even though I wasn't alive back then, and have only been climbing a few years, I get the old-dawg perspective.

I don't think they're saying that today, there aren't any "real" climbers running around. They are there.

The issue is, they are so diluted/watered down with the rest of us, that most of the old dogs look on at the current climate and frown. All the mickey-mouse wannabees (me included) would have been home tending the garden, or playing yahtzee, or sewing a napkin back in the day. 2015? We each have our own adventure-lulz-spray-gopro-blog!

There would be no trollenor rolling around in her mold-mobile taking selfies on a one-pitch 5.6...she would have been tossed in a pit somewhere. Most likely, the majority of the rest of us would be tossed in with her.

This generation's real climbers have to share the stage with an army of fools. Back in the day - not so much.

Ya dig?

EDIT: This probably goes without saying, but if you don't like what I wrote above, 99.9% chance you're one of the pit-tossees.

Adam Burch wrote:All kidding aside, even though I wasn't alive back then, and have only been climbing a few years, I get the old-dawg perspective. I don't think they're saying that today, there aren't any "real" climbers running around. They are there. The issue is, they are so diluted/watered down with the rest of us, that most of the old dogs look on at the current climate and frown. All the mickey-mouse wannabees (me included) would have been home tending the garden, or playing yahtzee, or sewing a napkin back in the day. 2015? We each have our own adventure-lulz-spray-gopro-blog! There would be no trollenor rolling around in her mold-mobile taking selfies on a one-pitch 5.6...she would have been tossed in a pit somewhere. Most likely, the majority of the rest of us would be tossed in with her. This generation's real climbers have to share the stage with an army of fools. Back in the day - not so much. Ya dig? EDIT: This probably goes without saying, but if you don't like what I wrote above, 99.9% chance you're one of the pit-tossees.

Climbing friend burch!

You must NOT be making of the fun of such excellent modern climbers as this, performing bold, enjoyable, indoor ass-pants selfie flash of the climbing rocks of plastic:

sbc

Aleks Zebastian wrote: Climbing friend burch! You must NOT be making of the fun of such excellent modern climbers as this, performing bold, enjoyable, indoor ass-pants selfie flash of the climbing rocks of plastic:

Superb shot .... love to get thrown down a pit with this selfie.....burch realize UK humour is different.....Of course posts from climbers in Colorado is at times difficult to translate due to the latest law on self indulgence. Lucky Lads..

For all the “old-dawgs” out there, and all climbers in general, I think that we all need to realize that climbing has evolved and branched out in so many ways over the years. What used to be a very specialized and specific sport run by a small tribe is now a rapidly growing umbrella sport enjoyed by millions. “Climbing” can be now defined as, sport, trad, bouldering, gym, ice, mountaineering.. and so on. All are quite different from each other, but still the same at their core. To try and define climbing and put restrictions on what it can or cannot be just seems against the very route of what climbing is.

Yes, grabbing a smoothie from the juice bar after an indoor bouldering session is miles apart from splitting the last Pro Bar while shivering on a tiny ledge after being benighted in the black canyon on a failed FA attempt. But are they both climbing? Yes.

If you think MP is ruining the adventure, then don’t read it. Simple. I “self sandbag” myself all the time. Recently, I was 3 pitches up with a relatively new climber. She asks “so where does the next pitch go?” I look at her, “oh… I have no clue, I assume it’s up there somewhere.” The look on her face was priceless, but the truth of the matter was, I had no clue, for I had done little to no research. I wanted the experience of just figuring it out. Which I did, and the day was saved, and it was a memorable day for the both of us.

And yes, climbing needs less “ass-pants selfies” from attractive blonde girls. These types of “climbers” are ruining our image as unemployed filthy dumpster diving vagabond dirtbags.

I think there's always a sense of adventure to be found even on climbs you've done before. I've done certain flatiron climbs over and over again, and each time I'm trying to remember the belays or how far the rope is going to go etc. Sure it's not a blind man running in the dark, but it's still always exciting.

I think I said this earlier in the thread, but I've spent mornings bushwacking trying to find the climb to no avail. I like being outside, but I'd rather be finishing climbing when the storms roll in as opposed to getting nothing done.