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Dumb question not a troll!

Tony Luchetta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 30

In all seriousness, check out the Bachar-Yerian in Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite. Definitely an all time example of establishing a new route ground up.

Alpinist published an article that Bachar himself wrote about it. Check it out:

alpinist.com/doc/ALP26/firs…

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Thanks for the read, Tony. At least something good came out of this.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

mustardtiger......

seriously?

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

Looks like he's a boulderer and dipping his toe in the climbing world.

The easiest way to get to the top is just drill holes and climb the bolts. Then rappel down and remove the bolts you don't need. If you don't use removable bolts (RB) then you could use my favorite: Fixe Triplex bolts. The Triplex are slide in, tighten, use. Then loosen and remove entire bolt. You can repeat this process until you reach the top of the Dawn Wall if you desired (it would be tedious to drill by hand).

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
manuel rangel wrote:Looks like he's a boulderer and dipping his toe in the climbing world. The easiest way to get to the top is just drill holes and climb the bolts. Then rappel down and remove the bolts you don't need. If you don't use removable bolts (RB) then you could use my favorite: Fixe Triplex bolts. The Triplex are slide in, tighten, use. Then loosen and remove entire bolt. You can repeat this process until you reach the top of the Dawn Wall if you desired (it would be tedious to drill by hand).
That's a good point. Don't forget, most climbers will drill a series of three holes for each bolt, that way you can pick the one that you like the best. Sometimes one hole will be stronger than another, so it's best to pick the one that looks the most secure. Eventually erosion will fill in the other holes you don't use, so it's all good.
Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

You could do that and remain a douche. Or easily patch the holes with glue and blow some dirt on the wet glue to hide the hole. That way you could get it done easily and cleanly.

I'll pass along more info if you need it. Otherwise, remember, there are many ways to skin a cat. But if you blow it you're gonna die.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

^^^ LOL

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

I am indeed a boulderer. I have nothing against sport climbing, I just have never had the opportunity to do it besides in a gym on tr.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

yes!!

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

Also I will not be the one bolting or doing any route development. I was just curious about how it's done and the cobra thread made me even more curious.

I'll be damned if anyone tries to rig up a slackline on this tower. Actually I am thinking of a proposal to out right ban slack lining in the park.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

Outlaw slack lining? Climbing has damaged more rock than slack lining. Just stand under Indian Creek classic, Incredible Hand Crack. It was a single color when I climbed it 15 years ago. The crack now sports two tones. The lighter stripe was created by bodies rubbing on the rock.

The Cobra was going to fall. Blame aplenty but nature was the main culprit IMO.

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

That's your opinion and your entitled to it but you wolnt be intitled to slack if my mission is accomplished on a global scale!

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

Troll on dug mustard.

mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

The threads over so might as well.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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