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New Climbing Shoes

Original Post
Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

I am 65 now, and climbed actively from 1967 to about 1974... and the shoes that we used were Spiders, then Robbins boots, then PA's and finally EB's. I am going to redo some of my old climbs in the Organ Mountains of southern New Mexico this spring, and was wondering about the present crop of rock shoes out there. Recently saw a thing on TV about the way technology has elevated the modern shoe to amazing levels, with the 'grip' of the sole. Are all the modern shoes essentially the same as far as this is concerned? Or are there some (perhaps because of patents, etc.) that are better? Some advice is appreciated.
Lee Davis

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I would guess modern shoes climb better because of stickier rubber. There might be some benefit to a better fit, too, but I wouldn't know as I started climbing in 1998.

People say C4 (standard on Five Ten shoes) is the best rubber, but I don't know that it makes that much difference. I think it's the climber more than which modern rubber sole.

Depending on what the type of climbs you're going to do, the La Sportiva TC Pro is a good all-around shoe. Which comes with Vibram Edge rubber, not C4.

Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

Yes, it is the rubber that improves the shoe... and the shoe definitely improves the climber. I remember after a bit of climbing at Joshua Tree in 1970 we stopped at West Ridge in LA (in preparation for going to Yosemite Valley). I was jazzed by red PA's and bought a pair for $19.95. Mark, one of my climbing buddies couldn't afford the PA's, so he bought the EB's for 11.95. On Glacier Point he was climbing rings around us! The EB's had a softer rubber that gave them a better grip, and made a world of difference... from then on, it was EB's for me. A better shoe makes any climber better. I tracked down the show that I saw that mentioned rock climbing and it was "Sticky Stuff" on Modern Marvels, from 2007. So this type of rubber has been around for a while, it appears. To anyone who says that the shoes don't make the climber all I can say is that I'll take a pair of EB's over Florsheims any day.

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

You can bet your feet are somewhat larger than they were in 1974. Go to a climbing shop and try a bunch of shoes on. Afternoons when your feet are more swollen is preferred.

Since this is going to be all new to you, I might suggest you first find something that fits and is not a down turned toe or very asymmetric. The store clerk will know what that is but basically bent to the side toe box. Good news is they don't have to be as tight as EB's to still climb well. However they should fit your heel and no belching when you are walking in them.

IMO either Stealth C-4 or Onyx is the ticket. However if you find a pair in another rubber it is not the deal breaker. You can have them resoled. A lined shoe will not stretch much. An unlined shoe like a Sportiva Mythos or Anasazi MoccAsym will stretch a full size. Don't get talked into a so called all around beginner shoe.

I'm 67 and wear size 13 street shoe and find a 46 fits me well. 46.5 or 47 too big, 45.5 too small. Remember they are for the most part hand made and size will vary even with the same model and size.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Lee Davis wrote: Some advice is appreciated. Lee Davis
Find a pair that fit and you will really enjoy how well modern shoes climb.
Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

There are significant differences in the shapes of shoes that lend themselves to different styles of climbing. Most of the rubber is fairly similar in terms of performance, but there are minor differences.

If you're looking to do mostly slab (friction and edging) routes down in the Organs I'd probably look at flat shoes that will smear better and don't need to be fitted as tightly so you can wear them on longer routes without (as much) discomfort. The other bonus is that those shoes are often cheaper. At any rate, I'd stay away from the down-turned sport climbing and bouldering shoes.

Some options:
The La Sportiva Mythos,nice soft shoe, moderate cost,smears really well and is decent for crack but doesn't edge as well as some. Still a good shoe if your feet are strong.
The Sportiva Tarantula and Nago might be good options as well and are significantly cheaper.

Scarpa Techno's are supposed to be good and the Helix is probably comparable to the Tarantula/Nago from Sportiva.

Evolv, a relatively new shoe company, puts out a decent product. Maybe their Bandit or Defy would work well and they're priced pretty comfortably.

In Albuquerque your choices are pretty much REI and Stone Age Climbing Gym. Stone Age (I think) will let you try the shoes in their gym which is nice though there's not much slab climbing there. Both probably have most of the shoes above and probably some others.

Have a great season; I've been wanting to get down there but never set aside enough time.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

If you (the OP) stopped climbing in 74, that was before the advent of sticky rubber. Pretty much any current shoe will be an amazing improvement over what you once wore. When the first Fires (Fee-rays) came out circa 1978, there was some outcry that they constituted cheating and that any climbs done in them should be downgraded a full grade. Interestingly, the same argument was used against Friends when they first became available.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

- top climbers wears different brands of shoes between em

- top climbers all use different types of rubber

- match the type of shoe to the climbing style

- get what fits

Climbing shoes is the one piece of gear that can male the biggest difference ... Yet good climbers can send in any brand of shoe and with any type of modern rubber

Some top climbers change shoe companies every now and then ... Theyl still climb hard

Thats all there is to it

;)

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

Fit is "everything".

Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

A long time ago I tried a pair of EBs just for shits and giggles...They were super uncomfortable and overall horrible. I also have an old pair of Fire's circa about 1990 or so, and I used to really like them. The Fires have not left my gear box since about 1995, as something like an Anasazi is on a whole other level in comfort and performance. Since the late 80's the level of performance and fit has increased significantly, and I assume that it is even more the case since the 70's.

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

Howdy Lee,

Some good options are the:

Boreal Ballet: mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/rsh…
Boreal Ace: mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/rsh…

Both of the above are pretty "classic" designs, and should provide enough support that you can size them comfortably.

American Made: mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/rsh…

La Sportiva:

TC Pro (probably the "best" shoe out there):
mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/rsh…

And if your feet are REALLY funky (bunions, weird toes, etc.) try the Mythos as it stretches a TON, sizing this will be key as most people have to size it WAY down to get a fit that climbs well after break in, so DON'T buy this shoe from an inexperienced salesman (but is is the most comfortable of all these): mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/rsh…

PS Pulled these off of Mountain Tools as Larry (owner) has been around a long time and will guarantee fit if you trace your foot.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

My 2 cents.

I like La Sportive Vibrum rubber for granite, gneiss, limestone and dolomite.

I like 5.10 C4 rubber on Sandstone and gym plastics.

For whatever reason the C4 feels ("feels") sticker on the sandstone to me.

Take that with a grain of salt but that what works for me.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

My one other recommendation/consideration for the OP: since you haven't been climbing in a long time, it's probably best to avoid shoe models with down-turned toes until you regain a lot of foot strength. You may also find them simply too painful for your feet (as I do, despite 40+ years of climbing).

Mark Thesing · · Central Indiana · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 60

Back in the late 70s and early 80s I did a lot of climbing. For most of that time I climbed EBs. In 83 I made a trip out to Yosemite and during the trip I picked up a pair of Fires and could believe what I could stand on with this new rubber. In 84 life took a turn and it was 30 years before I started getting back into climbing. I couldn't believe all the changes. Heck, the shoes didn't even look like climbing shoes anymore. Anyways, after a lot of research and trying on a lot of different shoes, I settled on a pair of TC Pros. For an old trad guy like me, they are the perfect shoe.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 342

Just go for comfort, something you can climb in all day.

Ti ck · · souf yeast · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 1,760

Awesome closeout deal($40 brand new) on five ten Hueco shoes, just got a pair of these myself:

shopfiveten.com/P-104306001…

enjoy!

Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

Thanks for all the great advice! That is exactly what I was looking for. Since I am gun shy about shoes, after my choice of PA's before EB's, I wanted some good useful suggestions on specifically what shoes would be best for an old fart like me. Thankyou to all... I feel a lot better now. Lee Davis

Lee Davis · · Belen, NM · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 350

One more question... I think I shall get the Five Ten Hueco's. My regular shoe size (cowboy boots, etc) is 11.5, or sometimes an 11, and my daughter is a woman's 7. Should I go for the same sizes in climbing shoes? The EB's that I wore were 9.5, and were perfect, though snug. Are modern shoes similar (where a very snug fit is best), or should I go just for the regular size I wear?

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Lee Davis wrote:One more question... I think I shall get the Five Ten Hueco's. My regular shoe size (cowboy boots, etc) is 11.5, or sometimes an 11, and my daughter is a woman's 7. Should I go for the same sizes in climbing shoes? The EB's that I wore were 9.5, and were perfect, though snug. Are modern shoes similar (where a very snug fit is best), or should I go just for the regular size I wear?
You would be a lot happier in the long run if you go to a good shop where you can try on the shoes and get helpful advice with respect to stretch, etc.

Where are you located? I'm sure someone can suggest the nearest climbing shop.
Ti ck · · souf yeast · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 1,760

Go to the shop and try on the Huecos come home order them through five ten online for $40 is how I would work it. Just make sure you buy stuff from the shop in the future.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Lee Davis wrote:One more question... I think I shall get the Five Ten Hueco's. My regular shoe size (cowboy boots, etc) is 11.5, or sometimes an 11, and my daughter is a woman's 7. Should I go for the same sizes in climbing shoes? The EB's that I wore were 9.5, and were perfect, though snug. Are modern shoes similar (where a very snug fit is best), or should I go just for the regular size I wear?
Snug but not painful. There are a lot more options than in the days of EBs and PAs, so don't decide on a particular shoe until you can try on multiple pairs of multiple brands. The size number is actually pretty irrelevant and my vary significantly between manufacturers. And keep possible candidates on for at least 15-20 minutes. I've tried on shoes that initially felt good but found I couldn't feel my toes after 15 minutes.

As an example, I cannot wear anything from Five Ten. The shapes of their lasts and my feet just don't match at all well. The Huecos may be great for you or they may not work at all or something in between.

edit to fix the curious original time recommendation
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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