New Climbing Shoes
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I am 65 now, and climbed actively from 1967 to about 1974... and the shoes that we used were Spiders, then Robbins boots, then PA's and finally EB's. I am going to redo some of my old climbs in the Organ Mountains of southern New Mexico this spring, and was wondering about the present crop of rock shoes out there. Recently saw a thing on TV about the way technology has elevated the modern shoe to amazing levels, with the 'grip' of the sole. Are all the modern shoes essentially the same as far as this is concerned? Or are there some (perhaps because of patents, etc.) that are better? Some advice is appreciated. |
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I would guess modern shoes climb better because of stickier rubber. There might be some benefit to a better fit, too, but I wouldn't know as I started climbing in 1998. |
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Yes, it is the rubber that improves the shoe... and the shoe definitely improves the climber. I remember after a bit of climbing at Joshua Tree in 1970 we stopped at West Ridge in LA (in preparation for going to Yosemite Valley). I was jazzed by red PA's and bought a pair for $19.95. Mark, one of my climbing buddies couldn't afford the PA's, so he bought the EB's for 11.95. On Glacier Point he was climbing rings around us! The EB's had a softer rubber that gave them a better grip, and made a world of difference... from then on, it was EB's for me. A better shoe makes any climber better. I tracked down the show that I saw that mentioned rock climbing and it was "Sticky Stuff" on Modern Marvels, from 2007. So this type of rubber has been around for a while, it appears. To anyone who says that the shoes don't make the climber all I can say is that I'll take a pair of EB's over Florsheims any day. |
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You can bet your feet are somewhat larger than they were in 1974. Go to a climbing shop and try a bunch of shoes on. Afternoons when your feet are more swollen is preferred. |
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Lee Davis wrote: Some advice is appreciated. Lee DavisFind a pair that fit and you will really enjoy how well modern shoes climb. |
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There are significant differences in the shapes of shoes that lend themselves to different styles of climbing. Most of the rubber is fairly similar in terms of performance, but there are minor differences. |
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If you (the OP) stopped climbing in 74, that was before the advent of sticky rubber. Pretty much any current shoe will be an amazing improvement over what you once wore. When the first Fires (Fee-rays) came out circa 1978, there was some outcry that they constituted cheating and that any climbs done in them should be downgraded a full grade. Interestingly, the same argument was used against Friends when they first became available. |
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- top climbers wears different brands of shoes between em |
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Fit is "everything". |
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A long time ago I tried a pair of EBs just for shits and giggles...They were super uncomfortable and overall horrible. I also have an old pair of Fire's circa about 1990 or so, and I used to really like them. The Fires have not left my gear box since about 1995, as something like an Anasazi is on a whole other level in comfort and performance. Since the late 80's the level of performance and fit has increased significantly, and I assume that it is even more the case since the 70's. |
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Howdy Lee, |
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My 2 cents. |
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My one other recommendation/consideration for the OP: since you haven't been climbing in a long time, it's probably best to avoid shoe models with down-turned toes until you regain a lot of foot strength. You may also find them simply too painful for your feet (as I do, despite 40+ years of climbing). |
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Back in the late 70s and early 80s I did a lot of climbing. For most of that time I climbed EBs. In 83 I made a trip out to Yosemite and during the trip I picked up a pair of Fires and could believe what I could stand on with this new rubber. In 84 life took a turn and it was 30 years before I started getting back into climbing. I couldn't believe all the changes. Heck, the shoes didn't even look like climbing shoes anymore. Anyways, after a lot of research and trying on a lot of different shoes, I settled on a pair of TC Pros. For an old trad guy like me, they are the perfect shoe. |
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Just go for comfort, something you can climb in all day. |
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Awesome closeout deal($40 brand new) on five ten Hueco shoes, just got a pair of these myself: |
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Thanks for all the great advice! That is exactly what I was looking for. Since I am gun shy about shoes, after my choice of PA's before EB's, I wanted some good useful suggestions on specifically what shoes would be best for an old fart like me. Thankyou to all... I feel a lot better now. Lee Davis |
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One more question... I think I shall get the Five Ten Hueco's. My regular shoe size (cowboy boots, etc) is 11.5, or sometimes an 11, and my daughter is a woman's 7. Should I go for the same sizes in climbing shoes? The EB's that I wore were 9.5, and were perfect, though snug. Are modern shoes similar (where a very snug fit is best), or should I go just for the regular size I wear? |
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Lee Davis wrote:One more question... I think I shall get the Five Ten Hueco's. My regular shoe size (cowboy boots, etc) is 11.5, or sometimes an 11, and my daughter is a woman's 7. Should I go for the same sizes in climbing shoes? The EB's that I wore were 9.5, and were perfect, though snug. Are modern shoes similar (where a very snug fit is best), or should I go just for the regular size I wear?You would be a lot happier in the long run if you go to a good shop where you can try on the shoes and get helpful advice with respect to stretch, etc. Where are you located? I'm sure someone can suggest the nearest climbing shop. |
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Go to the shop and try on the Huecos come home order them through five ten online for $40 is how I would work it. Just make sure you buy stuff from the shop in the future. |
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Lee Davis wrote:One more question... I think I shall get the Five Ten Hueco's. My regular shoe size (cowboy boots, etc) is 11.5, or sometimes an 11, and my daughter is a woman's 7. Should I go for the same sizes in climbing shoes? The EB's that I wore were 9.5, and were perfect, though snug. Are modern shoes similar (where a very snug fit is best), or should I go just for the regular size I wear?Snug but not painful. There are a lot more options than in the days of EBs and PAs, so don't decide on a particular shoe until you can try on multiple pairs of multiple brands. The size number is actually pretty irrelevant and my vary significantly between manufacturers. And keep possible candidates on for at least 15-20 minutes. I've tried on shoes that initially felt good but found I couldn't feel my toes after 15 minutes. As an example, I cannot wear anything from Five Ten. The shapes of their lasts and my feet just don't match at all well. The Huecos may be great for you or they may not work at all or something in between. edit to fix the curious original time recommendation |