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Best Guidebook for New Mexico -- Near Santa Fe

Original Post
Alec O · · Norwich, VT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 31

Hey all, taking a trip out to NM at the end of February and looking to do some climbing. It won't be a purely climbing trip (looking to ski at Taos a few days, plus hiking, enjoying Santa Fe, etc), but we're hoping to get a few days of climbing in if the weather permits.

I've looked through the MP Route Guide and have some ideas about possibly good places (Diablo Canyon jumps out, among many others), but I'd love to order a guidebook to really dig in. Any suggestions as to which guidebook will give me the best coverage for the area around Santa Fe (we'll be in Dixon)? Saw the Falcon guide (Jackson)--anything better out there?

Also, if you have any beta on places that we absolutely can't miss (that will be climbable in Feb), please share. We're happy to get out there even in lower temps, especially if there's some sun.

Thanks in advance!

Owen S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 3,363

I agree. Although I would like to support local guidebook authors, really most of the books that are out there are considerably out of touch with what has been developed in the time since their printing (the falcon guide especially but even the jemez rock book is woefully out of date). MP on the other hand is kept rigorously up-to-date by keen local climbers.

Ti ck · · souf yeast · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 1,760

The Shidoni bronze foundry and Tesuque glass are at the top of my list. If you are interested in Art at all this will be well worth your time as they are both at one location just outside of Santa Fe. It has been ten or so years since I interned there but I believe bronze pours are on Sunday and live glass blowing is every day of the week.

1508 Bishops Lodge Road PO Box 250. Tesuque, NM 87574

sorry no suggestions on climbing areas

Alec O · · Norwich, VT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 31

Thanks for all the replies! Looks like I'll wing it with MP.

Generally, we're up for anything--sport or trad. Our biggest question is whether it's worth it bringing a rack (and a tag line?). We're perfectly happy just sport climbing if that's the best type of climbing in the area, but we prefer trad, and there's a day or two worth of awesome trad lines, we'll definitely bring the rack. Thoughts on that? We climb up to 12 sport and 10+/11- trad. And, if we should bring the rack, do we need two ropes for most things, or will one 60m be fine?

Kim Romero-Oak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0

From Dixon Dead Cholla Wall and Utopian Vistas will be much closer than Diablo. Taos Rock would be a good guide book for the area. But it is a little outdated

I D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 458

You could easily sport climb the entire visit without getting bored (Diablo, Taos, White Rock, Las Conchas, Upper East Fork). Bring a tag line if visiting Winter Wall at Diablo. Bring your rack if you go to White Rock or Capulin. Check road closures on Capulin, but if you prefer trad this is your place.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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