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California
> San Francisco B…
> E Bay Area
> Mt Diablo SP
> Pine Canyon
> Pagoda Rock
Dry December
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 85
votes
Routes in Pagoda Rock
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Blue Zenith S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dry December T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pillar, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Unsung War, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | F.A Bo Johnston, Anthony Bilotti (1990) F.F.A Chad Suchoski (2006) |
| Page Views: | 10,051 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 10, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This route starts about 40 ft to the left of the Pillar and goes between a break in the canopy of two trees, then up the steep central face of the Pagoda. There are anchors at 100 ft but the route continues to the top and can easily be done in one pitch. Pockets, crimps, mantles and route finding is the name of the game on this one. Going strait up is not always the easiest way to the next bolt. You can easily make this route much harder than the grade. The crux comes just off the belay anchors on the second pitch. A few moves later and you're back in the more moderate range. The first pitch is 5.7 and can be toproped from the anchors with a 60m rope. Though this route has been around for more than 15 years, it was just recently bolted in the summer of 06 and could use a little trafic to clean it up.
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