Endurance training for Red River Gorge

What tips or programs do you recommend to help build the endurance/ power endurance needed to climb at the Red? I'm looking into 110ft routes like Transworld Depravity. Are there certain books, videos, training tools, anything to help out a fellow climber?

There are several good plans out there. Some in magazines, that are also available on line:
climber.co.uk/skills/coachi…

There are also plenty of books available that provide more in depth descriptions of what you can do to improve your performance:

amazon.com/Climbing-Trainin…

There was some great info in this thread! Oh, wait...

mountainproject.com/v/endur…

Pnelson wrote:There was some great info in this thread! Oh, wait... mountainproject.com/v/endur…

Kinda wanted some info relevant to the area too, sorry for trying to improve

mountainproject.com/v/prohi…

Climb here a bunch and boulder hard

Luc Ried wrote: Kinda wanted some info relevant to the area too, sorry for trying to improve

Ok, ok...

Although I have not been on 5.14s at the RRG, the harder routes there are not just jughauls, as a lot of folks have said in other threads that you've started. Most tend to have cruxes in which the holds get small and/or slopey. However, the cruxes are not THAT hard; most check in around v4 or 5. You just need to be able to keep enough power reserves while you're cruising through the jughauls to be able to pull those cruxes out. The good news is that climbing at the RRG is very straight forward, and translates from the gym pretty well. Learn to recover, move quickly, and climb efficiently on steep rock so that you have some reserves for those cruxes.

Here's what I would do to train for the RRG if you have access to a gym:

1) set some sort of numbers sequence that runs laps around a steep bouldering wall, that is at least 25 moves or so, with plenty of big holds that you can recover on. You should have around a 12b/c pump going at the end of these 25 moves. Then, without touching the ground, move right from this 25 move 5.12 into 5-8 move boulder problems that range from v3 to v6, with slopers, crimps, and some powerful big moves. Basically, you need to work on doing medium-hard boulder problems with a pump on.

2) If you cannot set problems at your gym, do 4x4s of problems that are around one letter grade above your regular flash level. Again, you want to be doing hardish boulder problems with a pump on.

Finally, I'm just going to say this once-- you may want to re-evaluate your goals. According to your online profiles, it looks like as of right now you just sent your first 12d, and are working on a short 13b? A full length RRG route 5.14 like Transworld (or I think you mentioned wanting to get on Golden Ticket in an earlier thread? lol) may be slightly out of your range for six months right now. Though, plenty of strong teens have come through to the RRG and broken in 5.14 there in the past, so who knows?

If you are bouldering strong, consider getting on a shorter, more bouldery route like Thanatopsis. Or, in the 5.13 range, consider routes like Golden Touch, Paradise Lost, Dracula 04, The Legend, or Convicted if you find yourself able to do hard moves but getting too pumped.

Good luck, and train hard!

Pnelson wrote: Finally, I'm just going to say this once-- you may want to re-evaluate your goals. According to your online profiles, it looks like as of right now you just sent your first 12d, and are working on a short 13b? A full length RRG route 5.14 like Transworld (or I think you mentioned wanting to get on Golden Ticket in an earlier thread? lol) may be slightly out of your range for six months right now. Though, plenty of strong teens have come through to the RRG and broken in 5.14 there in the past, so who knows? If you are bouldering strong, consider getting on a shorter, more bouldery route like Thanatopsis. Or, in the 5.13 range, consider routes like Golden Touch, Paradise Lost, Dracula 04, The Legend, or Convicted if you find yourself able to do hard moves but getting too pumped. Good luck, and train hard!

I'm also working the only 5.14 in the state, and am bolting the other possible 14. Its sad that we dont have very many hard routes in Arkansas which is a huge reason I'm visiting the red. I know I may not be able to climb my goal routes, but I'm still setting the bar high and training like heck to get there. I may switch my route choice to a shorter route like Thanatopsis or Gods own Stone. I boulder around v8-9 at the time and like the idea of v5 or so cruxes with long endurance finishes. Getting too pumped is definitely my worry right now

A.Greg wrote:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/prohibition-wall/108151880 Climb here a bunch and boulder hard

Have you climbed at Prohibition? I've been wanting to go there but wanted to hear others thoughts about it too. Great to hear from fellow Arkansans.