Brushing holds: placebo or panacea?

It's hard to not notice how much energy can go into scrubbing a hold that just spit someone off a climb. Certainly gym holds can get extraordinarily greasy, and it must be satisfying to see that cloud of chalk and skin erupt during a vigorous brushing. But does it actually help? I'm of the opinion that it does, but that what it helps is the head: if you think that hold's cleaner and therefore grippier, you're more confident. Since this sport is often as much about confidence as anything else, that's a distinct benefit. What I don't believe is that scrubbing away really contributes to the friction.

I've taken my turn washing holds and I know how nasty they can get. A nylon brush doesn't touch the accumulation of nasty. I'm also inclined to attribute my failures to weak technique and poor strength, not gear or shoes or slime. But I'm very often wrong. Surely MountainProject can set me right.

P.S.: I may be contrarian, but I'm not a troll. I offer this question sincerely.

Its rare to encounter a hold that has gone so long between brushings and rainstorm that *your* brushing actually makes a difference, provided everybody else has been brushing too. Still, if you're climbing with somebody whose approach to hold preparation is to just cake chalk in, but not brush it out afterwards, it can be pretty important.

immunizer wrote:It's hard to not notice how much energy can go into scrubbing a hold that just spit someone off a climb. Certainly gym holds can get extraordinarily greasy, and it must be satisfying to see that cloud of chalk and skin erupt during a vigorous brushing. But does it actually help? I'm of the opinion that it does, but that what it helps is the head: if you think that hold's cleaner and therefore grippier, you're more confident. Since this sport is often as much about confidence as anything else, that's a distinct benefit. What I don't believe is that scrubbing away really contributes to the friction. I've taken my turn washing holds and I know how nasty they can get. A nylon brush doesn't touch the accumulation of nasty. I'm also inclined to attribute my failures to weak technique and poor strength, not gear or shoes or slime. But I'm very often wrong. Surely MountainProject can set me right. P.S.: I may be contrarian, but I'm not a troll. I offer this question sincerely.

There were 2 trials done on the topic not to long ago. The coefficient of static friction of holds were measured pre and post brushing, brushing methods varied by study. Both studies showed approx a 20% increase in friction post brushing (p <.05). Obvious flaws, hard to standardize brushing methods, only gym holds were used, no idea how this related to rock (or even different types of rock), hard to control for different amounts of build up on holds- holds were utilized for same amount of time before entering the study, but no way to determine if the amounts of build up was similar.

SDY wrote: There were 2 trials done on the topic not to long ago. The coefficient of static friction of holds were measured pre and post brushing, brushing methods varied by study. Both studies showed approx a 20% increase in friction post brushing (p <.05). Obvious flaws, hard to standardize brushing methods, only gym holds were used, no idea how this related to rock (or even different types of rock), hard to control for different amounts of build up on holds- holds were utilized for same amount of time before entering the study, but no way to determine if the amounts of build up was similar.

Interesting. How did they evaluate friction? Source?

even if that number is off by 10%, a 10% friction increase climbing at my limit indoor bouldering is well into the difference between me sending and not sending. I'll keep brushing those bastards.

I think it's supposed to be penance for not climbing harder. Like when they make you scrub the toilet with your toothbrush in prison or the army or whatever. The toilet is probably cleaner though.

i think it really depends on what you are trying to clean. i have pulled my brush out for sandy, dusty, dirty holds and it cleans them up a ton so that i'm grabbing more rock and less debris. That i find very helpful. But when the rock is covered in grease and chalk from climbers hands it doesn't seem to do that much. Unless you can scrub enough off to get back down to the rock. So if the chalk is caked on thick good luck without a power washer.

I will say that i do brush the holds that are giving me trouble. Hoping it will improve my grip, but i don't expect much from it most of the time.

I think brushing holds definitely helps, but it also helps me a lot because it is forced rest between attempts. At the gym especially I make the mistake of not resting enough between climbs.

i didn't put a lot of value on brushing until i started bouldering granite. take a nice boars hair brush to a greasy looking hold you've been pawing at while flailing on your project and i guarantee you will 1.) see a difference and 2.) feel a difference. if adjusting your hip an inch to the right can be so important, surely having clean cold rock makes a difference too.

besides, bouldering is as much about the process as anything. brush hold, shoes on, chalk hands, mental moves, try problem, fall off problem, laugh, shoes come off, wait and repeat. the brushing only adds to the chemistry of it.

but that's just one man's opinion.

For fuck sakes. It helps clearly. There are high traffic routs that I have been on and red pointed many times. When climbing them I can tell when they are caked in chalk. The rout is harder, way harder. It feels as if I am climbing only on chalk, not even touching stone. A brush changes everything. Increased friction is the number one player in sending. That is why we seek cold days. A: brushing helps so do. B: it prolongs rock integrity and decreases visual impact slightly.C: keeps the integrity o the climb longer. D: let's the next climber perform better because the rock is crisper cleaner and has more friction.

Crush Crimps and Brush Ticks. #crushingcrimpsandbrushingticks

Austin Eddy wrote:I think brushing holds definitely helps, but it also helps me a lot because it is forced rest between attempts. At the gym especially I make the mistake of not resting enough between climbs.

Hmmmmm...never thought of that