Mountain Project Logo

Scarpa Rebel Pro GTX crampon question

Original Post
Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

I picked up a new pair of boots, and my crampons don't seem to fit well to them. I was wondering for those of you who own a pair of Rebel pro gtx boots if you needed a smaller toe bail and or an asymmetrical crampon bar to get a really well dialed in fit?

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I have the Rebels and the Bladeruuners (size 1). They fit great. No offsetting the toe bail.

Which size do you have?

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

43.5 or 10.33 US. The crampon in question is a Black Diamond Cyborg Pro

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I had no problems with my 45.5 Rebels and cyborgs..

That be a good fit yo! Like for real..

No offset toe bail

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

The toe tends to wobble on mine. I.e. from side to side. Maybe I don't have them adjusted correctly yet. Thanks for that should be pretty similar I would think that's not a huge difference in size.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

How old are your crampons? BD sells a narrow bail for the Stinger.

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

Fairly new. I've heard they have a narrow bail, I might go that route.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Shepido wrote:Fairly new. I've heard they have a narrow bail, I might go that route.
Just tighten the micro adjustment on your crampons!!! If I can get it you can get a good tight fit. You don't need a narrow bail.
jselwyn · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 40

Got the same setup and went with the smaller bail. It's a much better, more secure fit.

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200

While I don't have the Rebels I do wear a very low profile boot (Vasque M-Possible SS, it was a great boot but hasn't been made for years). These boots are size 8 men's, so they're not a rinky-dinky size either.

In my experience it's been difficult to find a crampon that I'm happy with the fit on these boots. Hated the Cyborgs, but I had them so I wore them for a couple of seasons. Could never get the fit right and the heel dial would always back off leaving a loose crampon.

I have also worn my husbands G14s. Nice Crampon, but felt bulky on my boot.

Just got a set of Petzl Lynx and good stuff so far. Hopefully I'll still be happy with them by the end of the season. They also have an asymmetrical fit do they might be a good option for your Rebels? Good luck!

Emmett Lyman · · Stoneham, MA (Boston burbs) · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 480

It definitely takes an acute angled toe bail to fit the Rebel Pro GTX's narrow front welt. Dane's discussed the BD toe bail fit issue quite a bit, especially relevant for boots like these. I think he usually ends up replacing them with narrower Petzl bails. (Yup, just checked and that's what he does: coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…)

I have the Rebel Ultra GTX and a Petzl Lynx crampon. They fit together very well as the Lynx has a narrow bail. However, I have to be careful even with the Lynx to make sure I get ideal alignment.

Good luck. Get it right - there are big dividends to a good crampon fit!

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Emmett Lyman wrote:It definitely takes an acute angled toe bail to fit the Rebel Pro GTX's narrow front welt. Dane's discussed the BD toe bail fit issue quite a bit, especially relevant for boots like these. I think he usually ends up replacing them with narrower Petzl bails. (Yup, just checked and that's what he does: coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…) I have the Rebel Ultra GTX and a Petzl Lynx crampon. They fit together very well as the Lynx has a narrow bail. However, I have to be careful even with the Lynx to make sure I get ideal alignment. Good luck. Get it right - there are big dividends to a good crampon fit!
Dane's review is dated at best relative to BD's new bail. Frankly, Dane could have gotten a better fit if he had reversed the link bars. The Asymmetrical shape of the boot has a greater impact on the crampon fit than the width of the bail.
Jim Hamilton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 0

I've had success squishing the two bail in a vice. Leave it on the crampon on and tighten the vice on the corners of the bail. Check the fit and repeat until it's fits your tow better. Cheap and effective.

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

So I tried the set up of Rebel Pro + Cyborg Small front bail out at the ice park and while it works it is not ideal. The crampon tends to slide laterally toward the outer edge of the toe bail. For whatever reason, the fit is just not that great. I suppose I will try putting it in a vise as suggested.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I'll email you a video of myself fitting the Cyborgs onto my Rebels.

PM me and maybe we could figure it out!

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

Sounds good. I'll send you a picture of what I'm describing.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Shepido wrote:So I tried the set up of Rebel Pro + Cyborg Small front bail out at the ice park and while it works it is not ideal. The crampon tends to slide laterally toward the outer edge of the toe bail. For whatever reason, the fit is just not that great. I suppose I will try putting it in a vise as suggested.
Did you flip the link bar over?
Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

No. I guess I don't understand why flipping the link bar will help, it appears to be the same for both crampons, and even stamped with the same marking so that it is universal to both sides. At least as far as I can tell.

I have the rear heal lever set so it cramps plenty firm, the fit is ok, but it moves sideways after I climb on it. Below is a picture.

I borrowed a pair of Petzl Lynx tonight, the front and secondary point on the cyborg is better positioned on the boot but the asymmetrical alignment of the lynx is better at least at this boot size.

43.5 Rebel GTX + BD Cyborg

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

The boot isn't straight so the curved link bar causes the crampons to point inward. By extension, the toe of the boot slides outward in the bail. Flipping the bar over causes some interference in the crampon assembly and keeps the points (and toe in the bail) pointing straight.

Like this: Left boot, right bar. Right boot, left bar.

Flipped bars

See how the crampons look straight? They can't physically turn inward because the bars curve outward.

Edit: Also, the toe bail safety strap causes alignment issues. You can remove it without sacrificing safety and improve crampon fit.

Shepido · · CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

Ray,

Forgive me here, but since the boot is so asymmetrical wouldn't I want a crampon that more followed in line with the overall shape of the boot? It seems that this more or less straightens out the crampon, and I'm attempting to fit a straight object to a curved profile... I will try it none the less and give you some feedback.

Thanks

- Mike

jselwyn · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 40

I've got a pair of 44 Rebel pros and the cyborgs. I've got them setup with the small bails and the BD asymmetric bars. The right toe will shift over a day and I'd be hesitant to use it without the wire keeper, but I've climbed a lot of ice and rock with them and had no issues. The right shifts because the toe welt is a good few mm's smaller than the left welt.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Scarpa Rebel Pro GTX crampon question "

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started