Mt Sanford beta

Hi all,

A friend and I are hoping to climb the Southwest ridge of Mt Sanford. The only beta we can find on the route is a vague description in the AAJ from the first ascent party. I am looking for any photos, beta or random info on ascents since the first ascent. Pictures and specific beta would be awesome but we'll take whatever we can get. Thanks!

Awesome, that sounds like a rad trip. I've never climbed Sanford, but I've spent a copious amount of time in the Wrangells and I might be able to help.

Some questions I have for you are... What are you considering the SW Ridge? Are you trying to go from the Dadina River drainage? What time of year?

The glaciers on the solar aspects have mostly been reduced to piles of moraine and may be difficult to access with a plane or by foot travel since the FA. The primary ski plane pilot, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule isn't flying past mid May. Dave at Copper Valley Air is a good choice and cheaper. Check out- aklynx.com There are some good resources on the site, I apologize that some of the links are down, but the Wrangell section is functioning;)
Keep in touch and let me know how I can help, for I live down the road in Valdez.

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Taylor,

Thank you for replying to my post. To answer your first question the route we are considering the southwest ridge is a rib at the southern most point of the west face. Not to be confused with the dramatic, rocky south ridge (although we have our eye on that as well) Here is is the link to the FAs AAJ page publications.americanalpine….

As far as where we are trying to fly into we are hoping as close as possible to the west face. Most likely it will be somewhere on the Sanford glacier and far from the Dadina River drainage I believe.

We are planning on climbing anywhere from mid until the end of May. We have contacted Copper Valley Air a couple times and are waiting to hear back from them.

Once again thanks for your reply and any beta you can provide.

Cool, sounds like you have been doing your homework. Ruedi Homberger might be worth contacting for some beta and photos. fotohomberger.ch/jo/

Yeah, that south ridge looks crazy! This is the only photo I have of that side. Paul Claus referred to the broad south facing slope as the "Ulu."

Hi,

I climbed Mt. Sanford last year via the Sheep Glacier but have been really interested in the multiple unclimbed routes that surround it. Were you able to gain the SW Ridge this season? I have a South American climb coming up, to be followed by either Assiniboine or King peak, Yukon. I'd be interested in talking to you more about Sanford if that still captures your interest, it is a daunting peak.

jd_stevens@netrucktire.com

John Stevens

Yall get after this?  Im looking at doing an up and over with skis from the south side of ulu up the s ridge and down the sheep.  Was hoping for more images of the s ridge.