Neopolitan Headrush
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 19 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,355 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on Mar 29, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
The crux comes right off the deck, so expect some tricky belaying with belayer and climber becoming intimate, better yet stick clip the second bolt.
After working out the pockets and crimps of the lower crux, cruise up to the shelf for a comfortable rest (or nap if it's sunny and warm). Clip the bolt and crank out of the roof.
Like the lower sequence, the roof here takes some vision to work out. Unlike the multiple choice questions on other Shelf climbs where deciding which chalked hold is the best, on NH deciding which unchalked hold that you may or may not see right now is best?
The route is a little short by shelf standards and the two cruxes are separated by a easy to achieve no hands rest, yet the route has very interesting moves on quality rock. Deserves more ascents than it appears to receive.
4 Comments