Petzl Laser and Laser Lites or Black Diamond Express?
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Goddamn it. I've posted a response to this thread twice over 2 days and both times the posting failed and since the text box on MP is non-persistent, I've lost my entire posting. |
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I noticed a touch of plating was off the very tip of a new (placed maybe 3X) aluminum Petzl screw. Hope this isn't a widespread occurrence. |
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^^^^^^^^^^^^ |
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So I've been out 3 days with my fancy Laser Lite screws and this is what I've found: |
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What makes you think there is problems with "bunches"? The screws are probably all from the same production run at this point. |
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Bunches! Haha.. Met batches. |
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Just a guess... amount of residual water left on the screw or in the cap. Not enough water on the screw = no chance for rust to form. |
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How much time passed between last climb and hanging it out to dry? |
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I leave the caps off the screws and put all of them in a crampon bag at the end of the day. When I get back to where I'm staying I dry out the screws. the next morning i place the caps back on the screws. The last day we drove back to Baltimore after climbing in the pass. 7 hours in a non-breathable bag could do it but only one screw rusted. |
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Aluminum conducts heat better than steel. I bet it's a combination of tooling marks and rapid cooling. |
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Hey Ray, you think a different 21cm would not the problems the one have has? |
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My question is whether or not the steel insert is replaceable or not? |
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Bill Kirby wrote:Hey Ray, you think a different 21cm would not the problems the one have has?I doubt there is a difference at this point. Can you take a picture of the inside of the screw? |
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Bill Kirby wrote:Hey Ray, you think a different 21cm would not the problems the one have has?I'm with Ray. I doubt there would be any difference. It's certainly not related to tooling marks though - the inside of the screw is polished mirror smooth. I suspect it has to do with the frictional properties on ice of aluminum vs steel. It seems that in the case of Petzl screws, a steel-tubed screw is slicker and places smoothly. Aluminum does not. I had the same experience with my 21cm Laser Light and a borrowed 16cm Laser Light - both of them factory sharp (or darn close to it). They bind when being placed. That's just the way it is. The way to mitigate this problem is ensure that they are bone dry and clean on the interior, but it will never be as smooth-placing as a steel screw. For this reason (and general durability), the only Laser Light that I own is a single 21cm screw for making V threads. My actual rack for lead protection are all Laser Speeds. I don't want to have to fiddlefuck around when I'm on lead. I can deal with the extra weight. Andrewww wrote:My question is whether or not the steel insert is replaceable or not?Nope. The only screw available right now (that I'm aware of) with replaceable tips is the E-Climb screw. |
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Inside a Petzl Laser Lite
Thanks for your help, Ray.. A buddy had a great idea!! It looks like the steel teeth weren't pressed on straight. I can't get a pic to show what I'm saying. I can look down the 21 cm and see a half moon lip that overlaps the aluminum tube. The rest of the rack looks good. It doesn't explian the rust but may explain why the screw won't go in the ice. Thoughts? |
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Coating where did you go??
Coating oh coating where did you go??? I'm starting to wonder if Petzl did it again? The word GriGri comes to mind. Anybody know if Petzl will make this right? Should I call? |
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I would call, having only 1 or 2 screws of the bunch behaving differently means the coating is not the same, these screws aren't cheap. |
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For thoes of you who have this screw and it works every time , congrats ! I'm psyched for ya ! I truly am . |