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are all gloves the same for ice?

Original Post
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Ok, maybe not all gloves.

I'm getting back into ice a little bit, and was thinking about getting some (hopefully) toasty gloves (or mittens? or the hybrid "index finger/3 finger mittens?) particularly for belaying.

Anyway, I did a little browsing online and the prices of many of the gloves are outrageous, seems like even entry level "climbing-specific" gloves are $60-80, and I saw one pair of Arcteryx that tipped the scales at $279.

So the ski-type gloves I currently have are from Target or somewhere and I think cost 20 bucks or something. They seem ok but not very warm. My current solution is just to have a couple of even cheaper pairs for the actual climbing part, and keep the ski gloves dry and just belay with those.

Anyway, my question is, do any of these higher-end gloves actually make a difference? Any recommendations on "best buys" that aren't too pricy but are significantly warmer than your basic ski glove?

Separate question: I don't own a pair of mittens: how are those to belay in? Seems like they'd be warmer...

J.C. Penny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 15

The key to a good ice glove is finger dexterity and fit. It does not have to be super expensive. I bring 3 pairs, one for approach and 2 for climbing, so I can interchange them. BD has a few good ice climbing gloves with padding. My favorite pair is a cheapo waterproof Manzella or something like that. If money is no issue I would go with a couple pairs of Arcteryx, one lighter one heavier.

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

THREAD DRIFT!

Do you guys prefer sizing your mitts to fit your climbing glove inside them? Or remove climbing glove, stuff into midlayers and put back on after the belay?

You should never ever ever pay $280 for gloves, even if you like the latest and greatest arcteryx, (i bought a pair once- venta something) get them at least 50% off.

Next glove I want is a Hestra Freerider, i bought a pair for my gf on super-clearance, they look bomber, and my beloved but falling apart Sierra Designs Transporters are a total ripoff of that design. It's a good glove, warmth and dexterity!

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Tom Sherman wrote: get them at least 50% off.
Well, THAT sounds like a plan...any suggestions good ways to do that?
Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

Ya! I'll find them for you in a bit, but you can start here: Cashback & Savings

I am convinced you can get anything 40%+ off if you look for 3 weeks and 15% of that you may need to wait for a cashback dividend. Just combine a sale with a retail coupon with a cashback bonus. Step 1 is having a job that lets you access a computer.

Greg Miller · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

Look for good durable palms (full grain leather with reinforced patches or some such) - I started climbing with a pair of cheap REI gloves, and between rappelling, belaying, and the original grip tape on my tools the palms of the gloves got chewed to pieces in a couple of months.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Not seeing a lot of votes for mittens so far... Pretty hard to operate a carabiner with mittens, I'd guess!

J.C. Penny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 15

Nope on mitts. Unless belaying in super chilly temps. But if it's cold enough to wear mitts to belay it's probably too cold to climb. Keeping body core warm helps keep hands warm, and don't over grip your tools!

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
J.C. Penny wrote: if it's cold enough to wear mitts to belay it's probably too cold to climb.
I think that may have been the case on the day that inspired this thread :)
Mtn Ape XL · · Utah · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 131

For the temperate winters that we have in Utah I have found the following to work pretty well; 1-2 pairs of light liners to wear on approaches (cheap & easily replaced if you trash them...which you will), 2-3 pairs of Outdoor Research Alibi II Gloves (or some type of grippy soft shell) for mixed or ice (switch them out throughout the day if they get wet), one pair of Petzl Cordex Plus or Metolius Full Finger Belay gloves for the belaying/rappelling activities and one pair of BD Punishers for climbing when it is "cold". Mitts and 3 finger lobster types don't work that well for any active scenarios but would be good for sitting around watching others climb or if you had to spend the night in an unplanned bivy situation.
Be aware the if you get used to climbing on the grippy soft shell gloves and then have to climb on the heavier gloves due to cold weather it will change everything (the grip needed on the tool, the way you clip the biners, the way you pull gear off your gear loops, the way you unclip screws from your ice clippers, the way you place screws and build anchors)

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

I looked for a min or two, best I could find on the ArcTeryx Alpha SV was $234.

I did stumble across this though The Holiest Glove There is in my size and from Backcountry Returned Goods... wish I had money to blow. I highly recommend this glove.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Someone just sent me this link... More the price range I was thinkin' of!
nealpinestart.com/2014/11/2…
(note, I have not tried these, no idea if they're any good, but as the guy says in the review, hard to miss for $20)

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
J.C. Penny wrote:Nope on mitts. Unless belaying in super chilly temps. But if it's cold enough to wear mitts to belay it's probably too cold to climb. Keeping body core warm helps keep hands warm, and don't over grip your tools!

It's never too cold to climb. Stick to moderate ice and leave the steep for warmer days.

To the OP:

Check out the OR Lodestar gloves. Alpenglow has them for $63.

Mitts are great for belaying when it's below 0F. I got a pair of EMS mitts on sale. You could probably find some in the For sale/Wanted section.
Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

I'm a fan of the three-finger or lobster-style mitts for climbing in extreme cold, with leashes. Otherwise, the dexterity hit from mittens is best addressed by wearing a thin poly-pro or fleece glove inside the mitt for fingery operations.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

I've tried climbing with really good "winter sport" gloves before. They just don't work as well as true ice climbing gloves.

Black Diamond Punishers are my go to. I have a second pair of Rab ice climbing gloves (not sure of their specific name). And, I have Rab Latok Ice Gauntlet for when it gets really cold. And yes, I bring all three to climb. And, I wear my "winter sport" gloves while not climbing.

Eric and Lucie · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 140

One of the key design aspects that makes a glove a good ice climbing glove (besides the obvious) is what's between the inner palm and finger lining and the outer material. Most ski gloves have a layer of insulation that allows the inner and outer layers to slide against one-another... when ice climbing, that will feel like rock climbing with a layer of mayonnaise between you an the rock...

My favorite ice climbing gloves for the last 10 years are the Contact gloves from OR.

outdoorresearch.com/en/cata…

They are (relatively) affordable, extremely flexible and dexterous, yet have some insulation on the back of the hand and fingers. Too bad they are only made in boring black right now. Perhaps you can find a pair on sale

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Thanks all...

Where do folks come down on the gauntlet/no gauntlet question?

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

I basically throw it down whenever I can

James Sweeney · · Roselle Park, NJ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 30

The next time you're coming east on Rte 28 stop in Kenco's and get a pair of Kinco's Take them home and treat them with Sno-Seal (which I believe you can also acquire in Kenco's) and you'll be good for the season.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Buff Johnson wrote:I basically throw it down whenever I can
Well played, Sir Buff!
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
James Sweeney wrote: The next time you're coming east on Rte 28 stop in Kenco's and get a pair of Kinco's Take them home and treat them with Sno-Seal (which I believe you can also acquire in Kenco's) and you'll be good for the season.
Man, I've driven past that place a bunch of times and never knew what it was. Cool, thanks.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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