ice conditions in Hyalite

Any updates on ice conditions? Recommendations on WI 2/3 short leads?

We were out there through Saturday. Ice was super fat all over the place, but warm temps were pulling down some freestanding daggers (like Bingo). It was warm the whole week were were in the canyon, so it did some damage. Hopefully it's since cooled off and things will stay in good shape.

Most everything that's easily accessible in the canyon is single pitch, so you're good on short leads. Right side of Fat One (Unnamed Wall) would be an ideal moderate line but there aren't any other moderate 3s nearby. Probably best to take a look at the Genesis area. Left side of Genesis 1 is definitely 2/3, though pegged out. And the top is an absolute mess of permanent toprope anchors if you want to climb the steeper 3's to the right. Mummy area might be your best bet. We didn't climb Mummy 1 but I suspect it's fat. I saw people on Switchback Falls, which would likely be good. Fat Chance had guides crawling over it all week so it must be in. Cave and Gully (same start as the Matrix - ignore the book) and the climb just downhill around the corner climber's right from it (what the book wrongly calls Cave and Gully) are also nice moderates. Crypt Orchid is extra short due to all the snow at the base. Just bail before the thin finish up top.

If you go to Pine Creek Blue Gully is an excellent 3. But Pine Creek Falls (2) were out last week... way out.

Have fun out there!

supertramp wrote:Any updates on ice conditions? Recommendations on WI 2/3 short leads?

As of this weekend, Far left side of "G1" would be a good very short WI2+ lead not overly picked out considering the number of people that area sees.
If you head left along G1 cliff band past two hummocks you will get to Lower "Green sleeves". Its longer then "Genesis 1", but fat and mellow. its listed as a WI3 but its a 2+ right now and will eat screws.
Both routes are loaded with layers of slings and quick links for topping roping.
Head up to "Hang Over" for a bit stouter (compared to Left G1 and Lower GS) route. its a WI3 but the crux is stepped out and easy for the grade. Climb up to what ever tree you want to stop at, or with a set of twins tackle the final head wall.

Last weekend the left side of "Fat Chance" (mentioned above) was very thin and would be hard to protect. The WI3 section (right) was picked out and easy going however.

a ton of stuff in the mummy area is good and easy. also first pitch of avy gulch is good. theres about 60m of WI2 above curtains in a beautiful gully if you can find a way to get to it

Does anyone have an update on recent conditions? A friend and I are considering a road trip for a few days in the upcoming week.

AlfredL wrote:Does anyone have an update on recent conditions? A friend and I are considering a road trip for a few days in the upcoming week.

There's plenty of ice. It's sort of climbing like it did in late March. Fat climbs in the sun are very sun-leached, shaded routes are warm and sticky. Some melt-freeze drips are trying to form. Popular climbs are totally hacked out, but hiking solves that issue.