Youth training program

Hey everyone, so I've got a question that I can't figure out the answer to. I'm a 16 year old climber, and have been absolutely obsessed with it for the last 10 years. This last year or so I've decided to step up my training game, with a goal of climbing strong outside, in all disciplines (improve in sport, bouldering, trad, what multi-pitch I can get to). The issue is that I'm also part of a local climbing team...actually, team captain. Having team 3-4 nights a week makes it difficult to not over-train, as I can't take time off, as most training programs seem to necessitate. My idea of training eventually resulted in a partial tear of a ligament, among other injuries. So, my question, does anyone have tips for doing extra training, without quitting team? Thanks

It sounds like you need to be really careful to not overdo it.

I don't have as heavy of a climbing training background(much more running and cycling) so take everything I say with a grain of salt but perhaps the best thing you could add is "recovery" level volume. What I mean is that 3-4 nights a week mean you are already really high intensity so you could just go for very very easy mileage. This could be climbing stuff so easy that it doesn't feel stressful at all just be out for some easy cruising. The idea is that you get the blood moving and can help speed muscle recovery from your high intensity workouts. Then during your normal high intensity workouts you can hit it harder because you are fresher/more recovered. This does require discipline to under no circumstances try hard on those easy days. You must make sure to keep it easy and gentle to just foster recovery.

The other thought is that maybe supplement with other exercises while you let your fingers rest from your hard climbing days. Maybe add a day where you just focus on soul destroying core strength workouts.

The main thing to keep in mind though is that you are 16 and if you train consistently you can have many many years of continual progress, but if you screw up your fingers your progress stops here. You will be far far stronger in the long run by making being injury-free a priority vs getting a short term strength boost but eventually getting your climbing curtailed by serious injury.

Sorry if I sound preachy I just have had knee surgery from overdoing it on my first sport(running) so I know the temptation to just train harder and harder but it has bitten me in the past.

Isaac Duncan wrote:goal of climbing strong outside, in all disciplines (improve in sport, bouldering, trad, what multi-pitch I can get to)

"All disciplines", in addition to Comp team, sounds like way too much.

Something to consider is that outdoor less-than-vertical face climbing tends to use different muscles and techniques than indoor Comp-style. It's mostly about footwork. So you might be able to fit that in on other days.
. (of course that kind of climbing has its own different ways of getting injured) .

If I've got a full day free, sometimes I'll spend much of the day on outdoor less-than-vertical rock, then on my way driving home stop at the climbing gym for an intense arm + finger workout. So far hasn't bit me.

Ken

3-4 (i assume hard) training days a week seem to be more than enough. Adding a few training seesions where you focus on technique drills instead of physical hard climbing could help a little bit but i would not add more hard climbing. Maybe add some training sessions for core muscle strenght, as it is hard to do much damage with those and they are usually quite benefical at steep overhanging routes.

Apart from that, probably the best long term thing is to add some other sports. Go running, swimming, cycling ... Getting to the base of the multi pitch climbs usually requires some hard approaches. So if you are in such a good shape, that hiking up 2000 feet with all your climbing gear is nothing for than a warm for me, it will definately help on longer multi pitch routes (>10 pitches).

Talk to your coach about formulating a more self-directed training plan to do while at practice. If you've been climbing 10 years and are a climbing team captain there is a good chance that doing the same drills/exercises as the bulk of your climbing team is, at best, doing you no good and more likely stunting your progression. If your coach resists your desire to move into a more structured and specific program find a new coach.

I coach a youth team. We have two team members in finals of ABS Nationals today, while drawing from a very small team population...in other words, we are punching above our weight as a team, having sent all but one through regionals with several winners and podiums, three through divisionals, and now two in the finals. Those results are down to our training.

We train 2 days a week, and the team members all try to climb outdoors on the weekend at least one day. Training sessions are about 2.5 hrs, sometimes as long as 3hr, with about 15 min warmup, 15 minute stretching and team meeting/workout planning/instruction, two 45 min blocks of climbing specific training, and 30min of supplemental exercises (core work, opposing muscles)

We climb all styles outside, and on several types of rock. If conditions or a ride or whatever is an issue, they climb on plastic on the weekend. We are blessed living in southern California where year round outdoor climbing is easily had, for both ropes and bouldering.

4 days a week of climbing training is too much IMO (assuming you are trying to climb outdoors on top of that, unless it's something like 2 climbing days and 2 supplemental days that don't focus on climbing musculature. I would aim for 2 days a week and at least one other day on the weekend, preferable outside on rock.

We also cycle our training focus, sort of a periodization. This constant tweaking of intensity and volume (we switch focus about every three weeks, and rarely do the exact same workout during an individual phase...though they are similar workouts). This helps avoid injury and keeps the plateaus at a minimum.

You don't get stronger and fitter during the training. The training is just a stimulus to force your body to adapt (get stronger). You actually get stronger during the recovery from the workout. So if you train too much, or too often, or too intensely for too long, you're body can't keep up with recovery and you will plateau, get injured, or both. By rotating your training focus, you give your body time to recover.

Being team captain, you need to demonstrate the self-discipline to your teammates, and rest when you need to rest. It's one of the hardest things to do...be in a gym with all your friends getting their crank on, and you having to sit around and not climb. Even in my 40s, and knowing how important it is, I have to fight that urge. I train myself mostly on days we don't have team stuff, so when the team is training, it's hard for me to not want to climb with them. But I stick to my schedule, because I know it works and I know what I need.

Good luck to you. Don't neglect the opposing muscles training (rice bucket, elbow prevenative exercises, etc).