Depends on a lot of things. What I tend to look for for ice formation is sustained sub-freezing temperatures, typically at least 5 days' worth. On thick ice with good adhesion to its substrate, you can push it well above freezing. On thin or poorly bonded ice, climbing it in the sun, even if its well below freezing, is a risky proposition. Your best bet is to climb with experienced folks for a while, get an idea of how weather conditions change climbing conditions.
I've definitely climbed ice when the daytime highs were over 70F. It can get kinda wet and fall-apart-y in hot weather. It's best to get an early start those days.
Actual ice quality matters way more than ambient temps.
Fink Fink
·
Jan 16, 2015
·
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 239
I would definitely agree with the above posters--the ice will tell you much more than a thermometer. A couple other things to consider:
-Aspect? Direct sun can do terrible things even when it's still cold. -Is there running water? Especially behind the ice / in between your thin smear and the rock it's on? -A low angle grade 3 flow is probably less affected than a grade 5 or 6 chandeliered, candlesticked, cauliflowered, hanging pillar -know that your screws will go to shit, especially in the sun. I've heard of people packing a handful of snow over their screws in such conditions, but I can't vouch for the efficacy. Seems like a dubious proposition if that's your margin of safety. -let your sticks guide you: do they sink solidly into plastic? Scrape uselessly at slush? Do you wish you had your alpine crampons with dual horizontal front points on, cuz it feels like your monos are going to slice through the ice?
Thanks for all the replies. Toproped today in 32-36 degree temps and the ice seemed good(a newb perspective). Shade pretty much all day. After a day on the ice I would have to say I am definitely addicted.
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