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Dubai and the United Arab Emirates

Original Post
Brian Coones · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 1,425

I have been living in Dubai since September and heading out climbing nearly every weekend. I am working to build the awareness of climbing in this region as well as build the climbing culture here.

There is a lot of climbing out there, much, much more than I ever expected. The current guide book for this area only shows about 25% of the routes and areas and leaves a lot out. Some of the stuff which has been left out can be found on redarmadapublishing.com/upd… and uaeclimbing.com/forum/ or few other sites listed on the main pages of MP for this area as well as at the bottom of this page. There is an older guide book on disc written by Alan Stark that has a lot more info but it is hard to come by as it is only on disc.

With well over 100 areas and over 500 routes that is more than enough to climb. However there are not a lot of climbers.

I believe that there are not a lot of climbers here because of the lack of knowledge of climbing in this part of the world. There are a few guide companies and two climbing walls. There are only a few stores but they do not carry but a handful of equipment.

Each time I have gone out I have only met a few other climbers none the less my experiences here have all been wonderful.

I would like to see a lot more climbers here so if any one plans on coming to this part of the world then please stop by here for some wonderful adventures. Also if anyone has any tips or ideas that I could use to increase the climbing population here please do tell. I have taken out a few friends that I have made and they loved it.

Below is a pasted copy about climbing in the UAE.

For the best information in one area please refer to the guide book. The guide book contains good topo's of the routes and decent directions to these areas. While it is one of the better guide books
which I have come across it leaves out tons of information and areas. A lot of the info can be found on the guide book web page in .pdf format.

Below is the information pertaining to rock climbing in this portion of the world. The information that I am a submitting about these areas has been compiled from my own experiences and from scouting the areas, from research I have done in the guide books and online and from other climbers which I have met or contacted. I am looking to make the climbing here better know and established with the most useful information possible. If you read this and feel that I left things out please contact me and let me know so I can update these areas. I am also looking for other climbers to help contribute to these areas. I am compiling as much information as I can, I am looking for pictures, topo,s, areas, routes, FA inf, historical info, GPS coordinates......If you have or know any one that has any info please forward it to me. Thank YOU. :)

The pictures which I have uploaded are pictures that I have taken myself, been given by other climbers or found online.

Where to Climb-
The UAE/Oman has some very interesting, challenging and enjoyable climbing. The UAE/Oman is abundant in routes of all types; top-rope, sport, trad and DWS. Within the UAE and the border between UAE/Oman holds a significant potential for rock climbing, hiking, camping, mountaineering, off-roading…. In the last several years there has been a large amount development of a lot of crags, which continues still. However, there is undoubtedly scope for more routes on identified crags and new crags to be found. The general areas where climbing has taken place are as follows:

• Khasab- On the Northern tip of Oman on the Musandam Peninsular, DWS
• Al Ain, -On the UAE/Oman border, East of Abu Dhabi and S. East of Dubai.
• Wadi Bih- On the UAE/Oman Border, East of Ras Al Khaimah.
• Ras Al Khaimah (RAK)- The largest concentration of climbing is within the Emirate of RAK, N. East of Dubai.
• Beyond RAK- N.East of RAK and just South of the Musandum (Oman) border
• Dibba Coast and Inland- In Oman, just past the UAE/Oman border, Dibba gives access to DWS on the Eastern side of the Musandam Peninsular.
• Central (Madam)- On the UAE/Oman Border 45 min East of Dubai
• Abu Dhabi- In Abu Dhabi, one small but nice bouldering area on the coast
• Southern Slope- Near the UAE/Oman Border. N. East of Dubai and West of Dibba
• Dubai- Home to two nice man made climbing walls

UAE is virgin land. The opportunity for first ascents is amazing, however do not expect to come out and make a first ascent in one day or even a few. Most of the climbs here take several days or more of hard cleaning. There are a lot of routes being set up. Those that are setting up these routes take lots of time to develop and clean them. If you come across a new route please be courteous to those that are doing the hard work to set them up and give them the right of first ascent (or attempt at it).

Type of Climbing-
Within the UAE/Oman you will find trad, sport, top-rope and DWS climbing. There are traditional routes ranging from single pitch to almost alpine in scale, 800-100m, sports routes, which I haven’t seen any over three pitches long, loads and loads of bouldering and Deep Water Soloing (DWS) along the coastal regions.

Rock and Character of the Climbing -
The rock formations are very unique and diverse. The climbing is located within the Hajar Mountain Range. For the most part the mountain range is made up of limestone. The quality of limestone is also quite unique and diverse. You will find some hard dense rock but expect to find lots of choss. Unlike many other limestone climbing areas of the world it has not been subjected to weathering from water or freeze-thaw effects. The combination of wind, water and high temperatures has resulted in surface rock that is often brittle. While there is a lot of smooth rock out there what you are likely to find is a lot of very sharp and unstable rock. Below the surface layer, the rock is generally hard but can be fractured like many limestones. Some routes are very well cleaned while others are not. Expect dirty crags and a lot of loose rock and flakes. The top layer of rock often just peels away from the underlying rock.
So what you may ask? Some thoughts and considerations:
• There is potentially an abundance of loose rock on and around the climbing crags. Even on cleaned routes there is always the possibility that further rock may become detached, albeit small pieces. Helmets are highly recommended and should be considered.
• All fixed gear should be treated with a skeptical eye, this includes bolts. Whilst bolts have been placed in accordance with current best practice you are responsible for making a judgment on whether they are safe, so be sure to properly inspect them before use.
• On the longer multi-pitch routes, loose rock is to be expected so be prepared for it
• Considerable skill and practice is required to confidently place traditional protection. Do not push your limit until you are familiar with the characteristics of the climbing and the rock features. The climbing here is a whole different world to most of the places you are likely to have climbed at.
• Many of the traditional routes away from the popular crags and harder routes on popular crags see few ascents; take a pioneering spirit with you.
• Whilst the walk-ins to the popular crags are short they are generally in rough unforgiving, sharp and steep mountain terrain. Maintain your vigilance at all times and in particular at the top or descending from crags.
• If you are going to develop new routes, especially one or two pitch ones, then clean them prior to first ascents or they will not see repeats or be of interest to the general climbing community.
• The rock is hard on clothing and equipment, it is not recommended to wear your new designer crag rat clothes if you value them.
• Due to the high amount of sharp rock. I recommend rope protectors where ever possible. One of the easiest things to use is tubular webbing.

Grading Systems Used-
The following grading systems have been used on climbs:
• Sports Routes: French
• Traditional: British
• Bouldering: V
• The routes that are posted on Mountain Project have been converted by me to the YDS

Equipment-
Sixty meter ropes are sufficient for the vast majority of routes; double ropes may be considered for some traditional routes. For sports climbing you will need up to 15 QDs and a few longer slings. For traditional climbing, an extensive and varied rack including cams and nuts is recommended with a few extra medium sized nuts on wire. There are a variety of lower offs at the top of sports routes so be prepared for lower off chains through to two normal bolt hangers. If you are planning to top rope off lower off chains it is requested that the rope is fed through a screw gate carabineer to preserve the in-situ rings. You can purchase all the climbing equipment that you will require here in the UAE from either Go Sports or Picnico; these outlets are all within Dubai but it is anticipated that an Abu Dhabi outlet will be available soon. I also recommend having a first aid kit with you and in the vehicle. Non-toxic super glue will be your friend out here. Carry it on climbs, but be careful. Not only will it sterilize a cut but it rather quickly stops bleeding and leaves a hard protective coating to continue climbing.

When to Climb/Weather-
It is possible to climb year round; this may come as a surprise. During the summer months it is recommended to move inland to Hatta and Wonderwall or the crags in Wadi Al Bih. Whilst the temperatures will be in the mid-40s the humidity is a lot lower than on the coast. From October through to April it is possible to climb on all the crags. Apart from the winter months, it is strongly recommended to avoid climbing in the sun. For the DWS enthusiasts, water temperatures in summer will be mid 30s and in the late winter (February) will fall to a chilly 20 degrees or so. There are likely to be a couple of days of rain during the winter months and the risk of thunder storms year round in land; just make sure that you stay clear of wadi bottoms during and immediately after any rain.

This is desert climbing at its best. Don't expect a lot of clouds here, it is very sunny; however there are a lot of shaded areas depending on where you are climbing. The valleys and wadi’s are where you often find more shade. Shaded areas also depend on the time of day.

Access-
The local population are generally hospitable to climbers and the number of adverse situations has been minimal. Please avoid parking in villages and camping on what may be pasture/farmed land. The right of access to climbing locations is untested and hopefully will remain so. Please ensure that you conduct yourself in a dignified fashion at all times. In the event of a local requesting that you move on, it is strongly requested that you do so promptly and without argument. After all, if in his opinion you are not taking him seriously he may return and shoot you.

Some areas are accessible from the road and others require a hike through the wadi's. If you are out be sure to bring extra food and water and make sure you have four wheel drive.

Never leave any gear unattended and unseen. If you will be away then lock your stuff in your vehicle. Anything left outside will grow legs and walk off.

While climbing near the roads you may get locals and others that pass by and stop to watch. For the most part if you don't bother the locals they will not bother you.

Some of the climbing is very near the UAE/Oman border or in Oman. Make sure that you have your passport or Visa at all times
Litter-
Everyone in the UAE litters, so please don’t be like them. As climbers we should hold ourselves to a higher standard. Please keep the climbing areas clean not only for your self but everyone else. Please take all of your litter and trash home with you (cigarette butts and water bottles included). I advise that you bring a shovel and bury your shit and TP as well.

Vehicles/Driving-
The majority of the current climbing locations are accessible by 2WD but I highly recommend a 4WD vehicle, you can get close enough not to require a 4WD vehicle.
Driving in the UAE/Oman is also very dangerous. The accident rate is very high. Pay close attention while driving and be on the defensive at all times.
Maps and GPS-
Do not rely on you Tomtom or Garmin to get you there. The roads here change day by day. One day you will take one road and the next it won’t be there, no seriously. GPS isn’t updated enough to use in these region, while they are nice and can be helpful they can also get you lost. There are several good off-road maps and atlas books that you can purchase that will be very helpful as well.

Next Steps-
I hope the above has not hindered your desire for climbing in the UAE/Oman. There is a wealth of quality climbing out there. Some of it is choss but there are a lot of good routes out there and some are outstanding. Climbing here is adventurous and not as accessible as going to a climbing wall although some of the crags have shorter walk-ins than from the car park to the wall.
One thing is definitely for sure, the climbing here is a whole new experience that I highly recommend to any climber. Not only is it fun but challenging and rewarding.

Bolt/Gear Fund-
If you want to assist with the development of UAE climbing then there is a fund where voluntary contributions are always welcome to offset the significant personal contributions that the route developers make themselves. To contribute please contact me. My self along with a few others will be more than welcome for the contribution and make sure that it gets put to great use. I can also put you in touch with the others.

Below are useful links where you can find .pdf files on areas not printed in the guide book, other climber....

www.redarmadapublishing.com/updates.php This is the Guide Book
www.foordkelcey.net/uae/
www.facebook.com/#!/group.php?gid=10128914047
uaeclimbing.blogspot.com/
www.uaeclimbing.com/forum/
www.omanclimbing.com/forum/index.php

Getting There
EDIT TEXT

Fly into Dubai or Abu Dhabi.
There are some ok off road books that will help you get to these areas as well as the guide book. However roads here change every day they pop up and disappear overnight. Do not rely on your GPS to tell you how to get there. Most GPS in the UAE is not updated.
You can access some of the routes right off of the road. Other areas require a hike or some off-roading. Make sure you have 4-wheel drive. Expect some scrambling in some areas, lots of loose rock or soft sand.
All the areas within RAK can be accessed from the sign post into Wadi Bih.
From the roundabout on the north end of Emirates Rd. go N. for 7.7km to the Clock Tower roundabout. Turn right (going east) for 2.4km. The RAK lagoon will be on your left. Turn right (going SE) for 2.9km. You will pass a golf course and come to the Lantern roundabout. Go straight through the roundabout for 400m to the Coffee Pot roundabout. Go strait for 4km to a crossroad, and continue strait for 600m to a t-junction. Go right for 1.4km towards the mountains. You will pass a military base and the Wadi Bih (W. Al Baih) signpost will be just passed that.

Toby Foord-Kelcey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 240
The guide book for this area only shows about 25% of the routes and areas and leaves a lot out.

Wrong. All archive infirmation on almost every excrescence climbed, however worthless or chossy, and new routes subsequent to the guide's publishing, are recorded here: redarmadapublishing.com/upd…

Beyond that, please note the following:
uaeclimbing.com/forum/viewt…
massimo · · Manerbio · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 40

I've been there and I spent an excellent day with Brian and Brian's friend.
I hope to replicate soon a same day when Ii will back, so we can discover a new wall and new zone...

I advice to everyone to try a UAE's rock.

Avi Katz · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 260

I'm looking for climbing partners 1/23-25 in Dubai. I'll be traveling with a sport climbing kit and can pitch AED for gas. PM me!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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