Another Accident due to mis-use of the Gri-gri
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bearbreeder wrote: if you want a good explanation read rgolds post on the last page ... he explains it better than i ever would"Forget it, Jake. It's Chinatown." youtu.be/9cWnubJ9CEw |
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Old Sag wrote: |
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There was a bare-handed save in the Gunks years ago too. A roped-up guy who wasn't tied in fell off a ledge. A climber in another party happened to be next to the zipping pile of rope and managed to grab a strand with one hand. He slowed the guy down enough so that he hit the ground with---I think---only bruises from 80 feet up or so, but the "belayer's" hand was very severely burned (maybe down to the bone, but I'm not sure about that part). |
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I learned climbing basics from an old guy named Paul Pedzolt at a little out of the way outfit called NOLS. To me this accident is purely a training issue. The belayer was incompletely or inadequately trained, and perhaps didn't practice enough. As a person that young, it was not her fault. It seems that this was an avoidable accident. I have great hopes for the two injured climbers' recovery - both physical and emotional. |
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Claude Ingersoll wrote:I learned climbing basics from an old guy named Paul Pedzolt at a little out of the way outfit called NOLS.Thats cool - what year did u take a course/s? |
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There is quite a lot of pure conjecture here by people who weren't even there and close witnesses. As a theoretical study to improve belay technique, there is value, but is it really appropriate to make a personal qualification assessment? Remember who it is you are commenting on. |
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John Byrnes wrote:I just spoke with an eye-witness to this accident... Trust me, you do not want to be on EITHER end of the rope when this happens!Realistically, no one could sustain a 50 ft rope burn without letting go. Could this be feeding the rope into the GriGri in the wrong direction or the lever got jammed open? Without sufficient facts, everything is conjecture. |
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Tan, it has already been established that the Grigri was threaded correctly. The belayer's sister double checked it was set up correctly before the climber headed up, and it was checked again after the accident. It does sound like a potential case of temporary release of pressure on the cam through action on the climbers side of the rope (maybe a quick grab to regain stability) or interference from the anchor, but we can only make educated guesses. |
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Jesus! Did we really need 17 pages of flaming dribble for this? |
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SendaGorilla wrote:Jesus! Did we really need 17 pages of flaming dribble for this? There is tons of literature out there (by the manufacturer) on the proper/safe use of these devices! I suggest doing a little reading? And oh, I don't know...a LOT of practicing? Just a thought. Flame on....+1111111111111 |
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I've lost track of who said what, who accepts reality, and who is trying to blame, defend, or claim that Petzl is ignorant of this failure mode. Someone posted the 10-minute Petzl video: How to belay the leader with a Grigri: youtube.com/watch?v=FHdqjjy… |
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Jake Jones wrote:So what you're saying is... Hold on loosely, but don't let go. If you cling to tightly, you're gonna lose control. With the guide hand, of course. Got it.It´s not what Mort is saying, it´s what Petzl say. |
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when is this thread gonna die ... |
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Well, we can nuke this one and always start another. |
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M Sprague wrote: First thing should be catching the climber, not your own preservation.Ding Ding Ding... Exactly why I think most folks should be on grigris to start with... because instinctively they can't do that in emergency situations. Takes a lot of training and experience to overcome ones own instincts for self preservation. |
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BigFeet wrote:Well, we can nuke this one and always start another.- true true :) |
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Jake Jones wrote:So what you're saying is... Hold on loosely, but don't let go. If you cling to tightly, you're gonna lose control. With the guide hand, of course. Got it.What they are saying, Jake, is that you not only need to listen, but hear 38 special while belaying with a gri-gri of any generation. |
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So what's more important, having a dedicated break hand or not grabbing the climbers side rope? |
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A broken hand seems pretty important. |
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BigFeet wrote:A broken hand seems pretty important. A devoted brake hand is a good thing, though.Recall that 17 pages back I related the story of a young lady with 2 broken wrists catching many many of my whips. I think a broke hand for a brake hand is adequate when used properly. |